Thursday, February 24, 2022

CapeTown, South Africa

While wandering around the V&A (Victoria and Alfred) waterfront area, I found some of the most gigantic oysters I have ever seen. While chatting with the crowd that drew around to view them, I was dared to eat the largest size in it's entirety. I complied, but not without some fear that I would actually choke. Somehow, painfully, I survived the bet. I wouldn't particularly recommend doing this. 


Other popular spots that I was sure to see while in Cape Town included Greenmarket Square, which is lined with vendors selling goods, but catered to tourists. Kloof Street and Bree Street are also hugely popular with modern buildings and restaurants and shops. The Malay quarter was memorable with colorful houses bordering the roadways. 


GOLD RESTAURANT

This was advertised as a "taste of Africa", an African feast! 

Seared ostrich filet, casava toast, Namibian lamb and venison sausage with tomato smoor, Tanzanian fried fish with spinach sauce, Zanzibar pilau rice, Cameroon braised butternut and coconut, Egyptian lentil dhal,  African beetroot cake, 

The experience included face painting, looking at beautiful artwork, and seeing several performances, such as traditional dance. I do remember that the service was slow and inconsistent, with some dishes not getting delivered to every table, as was unexpected as the feast had a set price, so I anticipated that I would get to sample everything on the menu.





MAMA AFRICA

The array of different meats that I sampled are pictured below. This restaurant offered unusual proteins such as warthog, version sausage, kudu, ostrich, springbok, and crocodile. 



Mama Africa was an experience I had thanks to my AirBNB hosts. I exude my passion about food wherever I go and they wanted me to eat at a place that "locals" would patronize. It was fun to try the various meats all while enjoying live music being exuberantly played throughout the evening.

Another experience I was lucky to have was attending a game of Sevens rugby. It felt like any huge stadium game in the United States with endless energy from the fans with the stadium resounding with cheers for their teams.

On the much more somber side of things, I also visited Robbin Island, the place where Nelson Mandela was jailed for 18 years. There was a tour of the island and the prison with the guide sharing stories of history as we made our way around the island with a bleak landscape.

Truth Coffee is definitely vibing steampunk, as pictured below. The staff was friendly and answered my questions as I carefully examined all of their roasted coffee options. One of my favorite details was that their menu was written on what appeared to be a newspaper. 


Visiting the Old Biscuit Mill kept me busy for a little while, but was not as extensive as I imagined that it would be. There were some brick and mortar stores, including wine shop and a chocolate shop where I became caught up the longest. There were also a number of food stalls and temporary tables with goods, set up with the feel of a farmer's market, both with fresh and prepared foods offered. 

On my final day in Cape Town, my plans unexpectedly fell through, so I decided to take a bus tour, which included stopping for wine tasting along the route. I do not particularly like participating with formal tours, but this was a method to access the city with the bonus of hearing history shared by the driver while we were on the bus. I also rode in the top of the double decker bus and ended up seeing some beautiful views of the coastline. It turned out to be an enjoyable afternoon, but recommended primarily if you enjoy wine tasting, which I do! It was nice opportunity to taste a few more sips of the local product before returning home and I found a few gems that I can still remember today!




Sunday, February 20, 2022

Franschhoek, South Africa

I found Franschhoek to be a surprisingly small town bursting with fantastic things to eat! I walked around and discovered the little town between meals, with the beautiful restaurants displayed below via the stunning plates from quick pictures that I snapped between mouthfuls comprised of dancing flavors.

LA PETITE FERME

This venue offered contemporary presentations of country style cuisine. 



Tuna Poke

Wasabi mayo, citrus pickled onions, cape pickled ginger coriander and lime gremolata, turmeric puree, chill and sesame dust 


Venison fillet with date labneh, blackberry, chocolate au jus, pistachio crumble, and pumpkin fitters


Cardamom and pistachio mouse with orange blossom sorbet, sable crumbs, and picked orange



LA PETITE COLUMBE

The experience at this restaurant was aesthetically outstanding. The dining room was formal and the service was on pointe, but the staff was personable and interactive. The presentations were inventive, making this very memorable.



Caraway sourdough, home churned butter, sesame, and roasted yeast




Yellowfin tuna, aubergine, miso, naartjie, avocado.

The presentation of this little dish had outstanding detail. Each item was flawlessly set in the dish and it was truly something that seemed almost too pretty to eat. 


Ravioli of langoustine, curled hake velour, cauliflower, coriander.

Every bit as complex as it sounds, yet with an overall delicate profile.


This was a playful contemporary version of soft boiled eggs with soldiers, served on a table separating the diner from the chef on the other side, as pictured below. He offered us the opportunity to "find" our food in the foliage. Such a playful and creative presentation!



Meeting the chef who allowed me to pass to his side of the table for this picture. 




Palate cleanser- refreshing frozen delightful and tart, a little sorbet on chilled rocks


Herb crusted lamb loin, confit neck, smoked olive, salsa verde, rib jus.

The heaviest dish remained light as the meat was offset by the accompanying greens to balance each bite.


Foxenberg goat cheese, goats milk caramel, kouign amann, guava, tamarind.

For me, this may have been the least outstandingly memorable plate as the flavors were more traditional in my mind, but nonetheless beautiful and satisfying with a play between sweet and savory. 




La Columbe Treasures
This was another delightfully creative presentation with a treasure box to open that contained tiny desserts.






FOLIAGE

This is a restaurant focused on serving foraged edible plants. The menu is certainly seasonal and when I was there I experienced the following dishes: 


Potato Chip with river trout tartar and fish dust.




BBQ karoo lamb belly, wilted pak choi leafs,confit turnips and braised fennel, red cabbage puree, roasted red pepper. The leaves provided a bitter contrast to the rich sauce accompaniment.


Banana bread with honey comb mousse and chocolate dust. 


Geranium leaves were candied in sugar syrup before being dehydrated.
Blueberry and poplar bolete nougatine, candied forest leaves and hazelnuts, buchu and honeybush sherbet, beetroot and amazi ice cream. Buchu has a flavor profile similar to mint, but less intense. 


SOLMS DELTA
Although I visited many wineries in the region, one that has a more intense memory for be was Solms Delta. This winery had become neglected when in 2001 Professor Mark Solms intended to revive it. However, the estate supported seven families who weren't eager for any changes. After learning the history of the land and the people there, the winery has been restored with respect to this and is now 45% co-invested as partnership with those who care for the lands. The uncovering of this history also resulted in a small museum on the property that tells the story of the place. 

Another reason was was intrigued to visit was that there is a restaurant on site that was advertised as having heritage South African food. However, when I visited, it was early in day and the estate was quiet. The women who greeted me explained that they were only providing a small selection of prepared foods that day. I am certain that my face fell and I shared how excited I was to experience the food. They then more than kindly cooked me my own meal! They explained that it was just a simple dish that they would eat themselves for lunch, but that fit the bill of what I was aiming for: authenticity.

They made me the dish Bobotie, which is of cape malay origin. It consisted of  minced ground beef, curry, raisins, turmeric, egg, wild garlic, citrus buchu. 


The other wine tasting that I participated with was the popular "wine train". I took the train on two different days, which meant that I visited two different routes, all containing different stops at different wineries. It was fantastic to see how the different wine makers achieved varying tastes across similar soil. 

I invite you to discover the foodie town of Franschhoek if you find yourself in South Africa!







 

Thursday, February 10, 2022

Paarl and Stellenbosch, South Africa

Exploring some fun areas in the Paarl region of South Africa at "The Spice Route", I was thrilled to find a chocolate tasting experience. I ate more than my fair share. 

DE VILLIERS CHOCOLATE
Single origin chocolate from around the world was part of the tasting, as well as chocolate bars with mix in items that created interesting flavors were all included. 



OVERTURE
This restaurant was a highly memorable experience. It is hidden in a picturesque spot,as the restaurant is surrounded by vineyards, with a modern building and art peeking at you, as pictured below:


Of course, the main attraction is the food, designed to include traditional flavors in contemporary format. The chef aims to provide local ingredients to express the history and heritage of South Africa in a contemporary way. I couldn't get enough of the gorgeous plating! 


Savory Olive eclair, olives



Coriander seed ciabatta
churned ash butter
homemade apricot jam
smoked fish croquettes
chicken liver parfait, beef fat, mustard



Chilled spring vegetable soup

Egg yolk gel, asparagus, horseradish, sorrel

charred yellowtail, watermelon, cucumber, fennel, chili 


Chalmar sirloin, tomato, olive, courgette, olive oil, hasselback potato


Caramelized cauliflower, miso, mushroom, green onion





black sesame sponge


Little dessert treats presented on a tray prior to concluding the meal! I took the opportunity to taste all of them, although I was already entirely satiated! 



DALEWOOD FROMAGE
This creamery produces estate cheese- the art of this cheese includes that it is created from the farm and the Jersey cows on the farm. 

I went out of my way, via an uber ride, to visit the farm and storefront selling the cheese, which is on the Franschhoek-Simondium Road amongst the cape winelands. The cheeses created include Brie, Camembert and Blue styles, in addition to the unique South African cheese named Huguenot, Boland, and Lanquedoc. I was able to sample several and purchase some as well. It was a quick stop in the tiny store, but it was great to experience the unique cheese of the region. 






BABYLONSTOREN

For me, this venue fits my ideological dreams. It has an organic garden used to supply the restaurant, as well as diary products, olive oil, and wine sourced from the farm. The space is spacious and rustic, yet curated to be comfortable and welcoming. 


Beautiful fruit appetizer offered with skewers of perfectly ripened fruit
The presentation of this was key. A server approached each table with the offer to select any number of fresh skewers prior to arrival of the ordered food. This was a lovely way to highlight seasonal ingredients from the property.


Spicy coconut bobotie sauce

Beautifully flaky and moist fish highlighted by fruit, an unexpectedly gents, but satisfying contrast to the sauce. 


Beetroot infused risotto with walnut and watercress pesto and drizzle of olive oil.
I enjoyed this, especially when adding the acidic contrast via squeezing the lime to contrast the rich creaminess of the risotto with the earthiness of the beets. 


Ginger pickled seasonal fruit and vegetables.
I was so pleased by the depth that the pickling added to the simple preparation of quinoa. These were hefty side portions included with the entrees. 


Potato wedges. Seemingly simple but beautifully executed with just the right amount of a thin crunchy exterior and savory salt. Simplicity at its best. 

The experiences here were unforgettable and I highly recommend each of them! 



 

Monday, February 7, 2022

Florence, Italy


TRATTORIA CIBREO

This is the sister restaurant of a high end establishment located around the corner. However, I had read that this venue had hearty and traditional fare. The food was plated as it would be at home. The ambiance was casual. The house wine was delicious. I was jet lagged and the meals somewhat of a blur, but was a solid start to my food journey in Italy!




RISTORANTE PERUCA

Also memorable to my stops in the region around Florence was experiencing a bistecca all Florentina!




The size of the steak is incredible in person! It covered a cutting board!


The other food at this restaurant is all not to be ignored.


Smoke was captured within this dome giving the  a fantastic flavor and presentation! 



Pasta stuffed with sheep cheese and pears covered with saffron cream and garnished with pine nuts.


Mackerel fish marinated in soy and balsamic vinegar with zucchini and carrot salad.

There was so much food that it is difficult to recall each dish individually, but everything was thoroughly enjoyed! I ordered as much a possible as they have a variety of popular plates and there was no disappointment. A great place to visit when in San Gimignano!