Thursday, January 26, 2017

Food and Friendships

Wine and Cheese Night
Los Angeles, California


Prior to this, my writing has been focused on illustrating food experiences that I enjoy outside of my home. Yet, so many meals occur across tables in our home. Not only is this because of the necessity of nourishing ourselves regularly, but so often in order to also nourish our relationships with others. The ambiance can be anything from a formal gathering to sitting around casually in comfortable clothing. The particular evening I'll highlight was at my apartment with six ladies confidently embracing acceptance of their authentic and natural selves, evidenced by wearing yoga pants and sweatshirts. Each person came bearing lovely cheese offerings to pair with bottles of wine and other snacks.

With no structure provided, everyone naturally gathered around the collected contributions and chatter was ceaseless amongst ladies that had formerly not all known one another. If nothing else, conversation could always return to what was being consumed. We talked about how things tasted, where it came from, what it reminded us of, and encouraged others to partake in a bite that we had enjoyed. My personal favorite of the evening was the Purple Haze Cypress Grove Chèvre lavender goat milk cheese. It was a creamy, floral, and mildly tangy with a gentle, yet still contrasting flavor, for my tongue that stood out against the crackers, berries, and wine. Usually, I enjoy textured cheese with crystalized salt when I am drinking red wine, but we did not have a cheese similar to that on the table nor something more intense and bold, such as a stilton.

I return from the digression on cheese back to the commonality created by a shared table. Partaking in a meal together allows for sharing an experience and then a connection can be formed, even if it be with someone who began as a stranger. Connections can be made with someone who we may otherwise have very little in common. Sometimes the lack of commonalities actually turns out to be more of an assumption that truth. This idea made me wonder, what if we sought out this connection? What if we looked for those with whom we believe we have less in common? Could creating a space to share food be an avenue through which to reduce barriers and prejudice?

A familiar gripe I have heard repeatedly in recent months is the observation that there is not tolerance observed consistently in our country for those who present in one way or another as being different. If that is the case, then why not take steps to find commonalities rather than differences? I find myself often in impromptu discussion wherever I go. It might be with a cashier, a waitress,  or a fellow diner. This occurs because I am open to the conversation. I may or may not initiate the discussion, but I expand on it rather than cutting it short or appearing dismissive or preoccupied. I give my attention. It takes only a moment to share a laugh or a complaint and then we have a moment of understanding each other where one had not existed before. We connect. We share a moment of humanity. One of the biggest lessons I have acquired because of these moments is to not judge someone by how they appear. I believe this has resulted in reducing my biases and leaving me with a more open mind to accept someone else. I also have come to believe that different does not necessarily mean wrong. It also does not mean that I need ascribe to the other person's beliefs. However, I am open to respectfully listening what they have to say and looking to appreciate that there is a reason why they act and feel as they do. Just as I may want someone to appreciate and understand my perspectives. How can I expect someone to do this for me if I do not do it for others? If I wish someone else to behave in a manner that I can respect, then should I not also hold myself to this same standard? Let us challenge ourselves to be the change that we wish to see in the world. Maybe this can begin across a shared table. In summary, perhaps we could each consider being open to finding similarities rather than focusing on our differences. Of course, I suggest this endeavor be embarked upon while enjoying something tasty! Cheers!



Monday, January 9, 2017

A Food Affair

Los Angeles, California



Chef Christian Royere and his wife, Babette, were an integral part of my experience at A Food Affair. They live up to one of the quotations graciously greeting patrons that reads "Come as a stranger, leave as family".

Chef Royere is from France, where he attended culinary school before working in restaurants in both France and Los Angeles. All of this was only following his early cooking experiences with his mother. A picture of her still adorns the restaurant walls that she watches over as a dignified woman peering out into the restaurant from the picture frame, pleased to show forth a large pot filled with her creation. Chef Royere's career then included working in restaurants in both France and Los Angeles.

I was fortunate to receive the chef to my table when he came by to inquire as to how we were enjoying our experience. He then readily engaged in conversation and excitedly explained each dish thoroughly for us. Although I would love to think my visit was unique, it appears that he graciously visited each set of guests in the restaurant that evening.

Alaskan Dungeness Crab Cakes with melon, jicama, mango, cilantro, scallion, coconut curry yogurt.

This dish was a pleasing start to the meal. The cake was almost entirely made of just crab, rather than having other fillers added and it was very lightly fried to provide a thin crust on the outside with a subtle citrus flavor permeating through it. The yogurt was the texture of a mayonnaise and added a nice creaminess to the salad that added a crisp and crunchy texture with a mild tanginess from the pomegranate seeds to balance the sweetness of the mango in the salad and the sauce dotted around the plate. I could have eaten an entire plate of the accompanying jicama and mango salad since it was a combination of sweet, tart, and crunchy, appealing on a diverse level to my tongue.


Brussel Sprouts with caramelized onion, hazelnuts, dates, pancetta.




This was ordered with the pancetta omitted, due to my body's intolerance for pork (I will likely lament this endlessly in my writing). Although the saltiness certainly would have added more depth to the dish, it was very tasty with the sweetness of the camelized onions and dates and squash to contrast the mild bitterness possessed by Brussel sprouts, which I was very happy to see added to the plate, as it was not listed on the menu. The hazelnuts added their buttery caramel flavor for a more dynamic bite and was a nice selection over other nuts that may have ended a more bitter or neutral flavor.







Wild Diver Sea Scallop with heirloom cauliflower risotto, asparagus, zucchini, artichoke, citrus glaze.

The cauliflower risotto had a deeply flavorful risotto like salty cheesiness that was creamy and rich. No hint of bitterness was to be found and the texture was certainly akin to that of a risotto, albeit a healthier option. This was enhanced with the roasted flavors of the vegetables and the citrus glaze on the sea scallops was a nice deviation from other preparations that I have had. Not only did it contribute sweetness, but also a brittle case around the scallop without impacting the scallop in retaining tenderness.


Bouillabaisse with manilla clams, PE mussels, Louisiana shrimp,  alaskan cod, Hawaiian Mahi Mahi, pacific rock fish, seafood saffron broth, garlic rouille

The broth was rich, but light with fronds of fennel adding not only to the appearance of the plate, but also an anise aromatics to each bite. It was veritably enjoyable. How can I have so little to say?!?



Coconut Creme Caramel coconut milk, mango, caramelized banana, toasted coconut, pepitas, mango coulis





A light, sweet, and fruity finish to a meal that offered multiple dishes that were well balanced and interesting without being too traditional nor particularly unusual. This was a light and airy pudding with a thin layer of coconut chips as a foundation to marry with the sweetness of the mango and bananas. I would have enjoyed a more caramelized and sweet banana, although the dessert was sweet enough, but I maintain that the firmness of the bananas would have been more appealing had they been softened by caramelization.










French Chocolate Mousse including chocolate mousse, ganache, hint of passion fruit

Beautifully presented plating for a firm mousse with a soft ganache, when I expected a hard shell of chocolate. The chocolate pearls were a much needed textural component, of which I would have added more. After several bites, I would have liked more contrast in flavors to accompany the chocolate richness, such as more fruit or a bitterness of coffee bean, or even a more neutral, but crunch element. The passion fruit I found to be too mild, so I would have made it more than just a "hint" for the one note of chocolate that was the majority of this dessert.

Friday, January 6, 2017

Edmon


Los Angeles, California





Edmon is a newly opened restaurant adjacent to the Hollywood Historic Hotel, an art deco building from the 1920s on Santa Monica Boulevard in Los Angeles. The executive chef is Gabriel Cappella, a man who has had prior experience working at numerous restaurants as well as studying under Chef Michel Nischan (who has been a James Beard Award winner three times). Not too shabby! All of this to say, that I was certainly curious to experience it for myself and my anticipation increased when I arrived at the entrance to find the beautifully refurbished restaurant that maintained the ambiance of old without any trace of overly dankness remaining. It was classy!

Aviation gin, earl grey honey, amaro montenegro, lemon shaken on rocks ($12)
Prior to exploring the food menu, The Tea's Knees was the cocktail I sipped on. The drink was balanced with a hint of something I likely would not have been able to identify had I not seen Earl Grey Tea listed as one of the ingredients. I would have enjoyed a more intense Earl Grey essence in the flavor, but it was a smooth drink for which I had no other complaint.




Deep fried jackfruit, prickly pear slaw, "Jamaican jerk" coconut jerky, plantain tortillas ($15)
I was excited to try the fried plantain tortilla that was on the menu, which I first had in Columbia last year. This maintained a mild sweetness that combined well with the jerk flavor and the spiciness in a sauce. Nonetheless, I thought the flavors could have been presented more evenly spread. Each bite I had was disappointingly different. When I enjoyed a bite, it was really good, but others were lacking. I attribute this to not having a dish in which it is easy to visualize the various sauces, so it was unclear if all were present or not when scooping up a bite.



Scallops, lobster rillette, asparagus, sun choke veloute ($32).
The scallops were perfectly prepared and, again, this plate was complimented by a subtly unusual flavor with the earthiness of sun choke puree. The Salmon Rillette was fried, which I did not anticipate and added saltiness to the dish. I had expected, and would have enjoyed, the creamy texture of the rillette had it not been fried.



Pheasant breast, vegetable demi place made with dates, saffron quinoa, salsify, fried garbanzo beans, pistachio sour cream ($29)
The preparation of the pheasant reminded me of a duck confit, albeit less fatty. Nicely prepared with evident tenderness, but without a rich flavor that paired with a savory reduction that was sweet and provided much needed enhancement to elevate the pheasant. The quinoa was so nice in texture that I thought it was actually couscous, a lovely bite when sometimes quinoa can be a tad gooey. The saffron seasoning was a fantastic idea, too!

For dessert, bread pudding was explained by the waitress as the only option. It was delivered on a rectangle, single-serving, cast iron skillet that was much too large a portion considering that it was dessert. The bread pudding was actually savory. The breading was a combination of wheat bread and another bread that I cannot recall. Although it was described as being a maple bread pudding with white honey, it was not all sweet and disappointingly heavy as a dessert.


Overall, it the food was solid, but I am sad to say that the ambiance is what I enjoyed most of all when I am there because of the food!