Lazy Bear

San Francisco, California

This is a place that intentionally creates a memorable experience from the time of arrival to departure. The evening is structured to begin in an upstairs balcony that overlooks communal tables down below that are meticulously set for dinner.

Upon arriving, I was greeted warmly and ushered to the upstairs balcony where a refreshing seasonal spiked punch was offered to me after I was seated in a couch amongst other diners. After struggling to find parking on the clogged streets of San Francisco, I found the loft area already filled with other guests enjoying the snacks offered prior to dinner. Nonetheless, the servers carefully monitored which guests had received each snack to ensure that every individual enjoyed the full experience. As I settled in, I took in the ambiance.

The restaurant felt casual and rustic with wooden beams and forest themed decor cluttering the walls. In contrast to the eclectic outdoorsy art that hung in seemingly random collages, both the patrons and employees were more formal in both their carriage and attire. The entrance to the restaurant was situated underneath the loft where everyone was escorted prior to dinner. The long communal tables below served as a semblance of a runway into the open kitchen at the end of the large open space.





My welcome cocktail was accompanied by a booklet containing additional drinks as an option to order. I was satisfied with the light and fruity punch that had only a hint of tartness. Although it was a balanced drink, it did not stick with me as being notable. Then the seemingly endless parade of food began.

Whipped scrambled eggs with maple and hot sauce. 

This was the first snack served upstairs. Exquisitely frothy and light with just a hint of spice from the hot sauce. My only criticism is that perhaps it was so cloud-like that it disappeared rapidly on my tongue, limiting the duration of my enjoyment. 

Kumamoto oyster with winter citrus and chiles.
The oyster was topped with tiny cubes of gelatin with a light citrus flavor that was divine. The gentle flavor remained in the mouth long enough to enjoy it while not overpowering the smoothness of the oyster but with enough tartness to provide a contrast to the saltiness of the oyster. The contrast of the chew provided by the gelatin was a fantastic addition to the oyster that I have yet to experience, making it perhaps my favorite oyster to date! It was beautifully presented atop a rock bed that was served to me from a tray.












Crispy Maitake Mushroom with creme fraiche and allium dip.
This was a slate plate adorned with mushroom heaven! The mushrooms were lightly battered (as a tempura would be) giving a nice crunch. They were already seeped in their own mushroom flavor that was enhanced by the cleanly white and luxuriously thick creme that was dolloped into an accompanying bowl. It had a consistency reminiscent of buttercream frosting and it contained a light onion flavor to be balanced by the weight of the creme and strength of the mushroom taste. I did not see any of these bowls cleared away until they had been scraped clean by each patron. It felt like an indulgence due to the rich creme






Crab Toast with cauliflower on pumpernickel.
The crab was spread thickly enough to enjoy as an adequate counterpart to the dense nature of the pumpernickel it was spread upon. The bread was thin and toasted and provided a slightly crispy base. This was a bite was an elevated take on pastrami, but quite traditional rather than impressive or memorable to me.



Satsuma mandarin soda with fennel and bitters.
The flavor was refreshing while also being syrupy thick. This could have been a sickly combination, yet it was topped with a thick foam  that was sufficient to cut the heaviness of the syrupy sweetness from the orange resulting in a palate cleansing pleasantness that I would compare to the function of a sorbet. I would have added another flavor component, such as cayenne, to further entertain the tastebuds.

Next, we were invited to the communal tables where we found a "Field Guide" dinner book in black and red buffalo plaid that listed each course. A pencil was also provided in the event that anyone desired to jot down notes as the dinner progressed. I took full advantage of this to facilitate my memory in describing the tastes with great detail. Each course was placed before us as a designated chef thoroughly described the dishes from the front of the room. We were all invited to walk up to the open kitchen at any time to observe the plating and speak with the chefs as they worked, a truly unusual proposal at any restaurant. This was a most memorable addition to make the evening more interactive.






Spelt and Rye Dinner roll with cultured butter.
I am not much a fan of bread lately, but I am a huge fan of butter and this butter was phenomenal. It carried a slightly tangy taste from buttermilk that the chef explained has been used repeatedly over four years. This has resulted in the flavors of the butter developing with peachy notes in addition to maintaining a cheesy lactic tang, characteristics that continue to evolve as the buttermilk is used again and again.
The bread was intended to be an interpretation of the pillowy dinner rolls so many of us had from the grocery store in our youth. Of course, they delivered a perfect bread that was both hearty and yet not dense. It was topped with brown sugar flakey salt! I enjoyed the unique salt, but personally would I have enjoyed a specially flavored bread. I picture something that could be complemented by the peach essence of the butter such as fennel, basil, or pecans.



Steelhead trout with hedgehog mushrooms, grains, coastal plants, and grasses.
This is a wild caught trout from the nearby reservation that is home to the Quinault Indian Nation. The fish are delivered with the roe sack still intact. The fish is then prepared with cured citrus and sake and adorned with watercress, spinach, and chickweed, each of them being mild greens that add primarily texture and color. To deliver flavor, fermented shiitake is added, as well as a sauce infused with ginger and scallop. This resulted in a beautiful light flavor that retained interest on the plate due to the richness of the shiitake and gentle spice of the ginger. The plating was beautiful and the fish was beyond fork tender, leaving me little to criticize.

Sourdough dumpling with Lazy Bear Reserve Caviar by Tsar Nicoulai and accompanied by seaweeds.
I had my first taste of chain bladder seaweed on this dish and it was lovely! This particular seaweed is distinguished by having a tiny pea pod like appearance that added a perfect little snap when taking a bite. The gnocchi had a very mild sourdough flavor that I may not have been able to pinpoint had it not been explained by the chef. The caviar also delivered additional popping sensations that I found delightful in contrast to the thick and chewy gnocchi. The flavor of the caviar was particularly salty, chosen specifically for the brine taste it could bring to this dish. The seaweed had been hand foraged and was all atop a meyer lemon and kombu dashi sauce. Although I often do not gravitate to gnocchi, I thoroughly enjoyed this dish with the brightness of the lemon lightening the taste and the caviar and chain bladder seaweed making the dish fun to eat with each tiny explosion that they delivered.

Bay Scallop with carrot, kumquat, sunflower.
For me, this was one of the more unique dishes of the evening. It was meant to be an elevated presentation of baby carrots dipped into peanut butter, an healthy childhood snack. I would not have imagined to pair a sunflower butter with a scallop, but it worked very well! There was an orange juice and olive oil vinaigrette dotting the plate along with kumquat and mandarinquat. A shaved red carrot was  cut so delicately that it appeared to be flower petals at first glance. This was atop the pickled pulp of carrot and sunflower seed butter. Hidden below the carrots were sveral perfectly tender scallops with soy and blood orange juice for a sauce and bay laurel salt to garnish. The detail of this dish was remarkable with so many ingredients coming together to form a taste that was surprisingly straightforward and sweet, but with the unique twist of laurel bay salt. This delivered a powerful punch, even as it was just dusted on the dish.









Celtuce with almond, nettle, and duck confit.
Another new food for me to experience was celtuce, which is Chinese lettuce that was slightly nutty and somehow reminded me of a combination of water chestnut and celery root with the chef comparing it to a cross between romaine lettuce and celery. This was braised to be softened and accompanied by a rich tarragon, garlic, and butter broth. It was topped with raw and thinly sliced celtuce with an almond milk custard and shreds of duck confit. Crunchy stinging nettle chips added color and texture to cap off the unique vegetable. I enjoyed the crunch of the raw celtuce against the toothier texture of the braised version and I found it delightful to be introduced to a new vegetable!

Sunchoke fondue with black trumpet, pink lady apple, Lisa's cheese.

This sunchoke was presented in various preparations including roasted, raw and fried crumble. The crumble was tossed across the surface of the plating. Black trumpet mushroom powder added a further earthiness to the sunchoke that also provides that profile. The fondue created a heavy and rich texture due to the goat and raw cow milk cheese  used. The cheese was sourced from Bohemian Creamery, a creamery located in Sebastopol, California. This is located about an hour north of the city in an area inundated with dairy farms that are known for creating superb cheese. The resultant plate was highly rich and creamy, nearly too heavy to finish and may have benefited from a thinner sauce. However, it was an extravagance that I willingly accepted.





Dry aged duck with yam, maple, and black kale.
The duck was from Sonoma County Poultry and is aged 8-10 days while remaining on the bone with the fat intact, which serves to tenderize as well as provide a mildly "funky" flavor, per the chef. California live oak is used for providing the smokey component and cuts through the gaminess that duck can retain otherwise. It was presented with yam and lightly fried kale and a gremolata (Pareley, garlic, lemon traditionally) remoulade  (egg, oil, vinegar, mustard, caper, herb traditionally) with  reduced fortified jus for a broth. This was my least favorite dish by far. I didn't find the duck to be tender nor smokey, but instead mildly chewy. I really could have done without it all together.







This was followed by a transition to multiple sweet endings for the meal.


Olive oil creamsicle with oro blanco and preserved citrus. Oro blanco is a cross between a pomelo and grapefruit, delivering a light citrus and minimally tart flavor. Bavarian cream, goji, white chocolate and olive oil created a hard ganache. Olive oil pat de fru was the center of the desert to deliver a chewy texture somewhat like a gummy bear. There was preserved citrus atop the shell made with yuzu juice and fresh red vein sorrel served as a leaf at the center of the masterpiece. The flavors were delicate and tart with beautiful craftsmanship. However, the outer shell was perhaps too thick or the dessert was too cold for the shell to easily break. This lent it to sliding awkwardly across the plate rather than being easily captured and enjoyed, as it was too large to be a single bite. I am typically not excited about white chocolate and would have loved if this was made from a dark chocolate, which would have deepened the flavors to providing a rich and contrasting bitterness against the citrus.





Parsnip with coffee, vanilla, and cacao
This may have been the highlight of the evening for me. There was an ice cream of roasted parsnip that was steeped in milk and vanilla bean. This was accompanied by a shortbread with espresso and ground parsnip tea with gelatin dusted in parsnip powder with a burnt cacao butter and sugar tulle like cookie that was baked to the point that it would bubble and then crisp. The ice cream was sensational. It was truly unique and earthly, while also being mildly sweet and complimentary of the burnt chocolate and espresso. The parsnip flavors may have been too light had it not been enhanced with the ground powder, but I experienced it as simply wonderful and thoroughly enjoyable.






From left to right:
Coastal redwood bon bon, dark chocolate, meyer lemon, sea salt, belharona gel
A beautifully crafted chocolate with the traditional combination of citrus and salt against the bitter chocolate. Not only was it shimmery to behold, it was an ideal size to place on the palate and savor slowly and it melted, allowing the flavors to expand gradually overtime.

Candy cap bar, white chocolate, smoke
The candy cap mushroom actually caramelizes as it is slow cooked. It consisted of a bottom layer that was the consistency of a soft and meltable caramel and only a hint of smoke that was difficult to detect. Maybe the chef's intention was to not overpower the candy cap mushroom with smokiness and instead retain a traditional caramel while using unusual ingredients?

Sunflower seed nougat, pumpkin seed, wolf berry
The bite was reminiscent of a Big Hunk bar with ingredients of honey, egg white, goji berry, and cherry. For me, it had a somewhat plain taste in contrasts to the other treats. It had a tough chewy texture and hints that were slightly savory rather than sweet. This did deliver a contrast to the other dessert bites, but not a necessary addition in my book considering how many desserts were offered.

Cara Cara pate de fruit, carrot, ginger
This was a sophisticated interpretation of a Sour Patch Kid! It was both sweet and tart. I was thrilled with the freshness of the flavor and the softness of the gelatin. It delivered a perfect tender gel to chew on without being overly gummy. A lovely palate cleanser!

Overall, this dinner was highly memorable. It was an experience beyond just eating a fantastic meal. The food was thoughtful and generally well executed, although my suggestions are sprinkled throughout this post.
One additional comment, the general volume of food that was presented throughout the evening was really too much, leaving me feeling overly full. I have noted that this comment is not unique to myself, per reading reviews of others. This may be a different experience to those who have a larger appetite that I do, but typically I have left fixed menu meals feeling well satiated without being overly stuffed. Of course, patrons want to feel that the meal is worth the price point as well as wanting to indulge in every bite, but it made the evening slightly less enjoyable to be leaving with a feeling of excessive consumption.

I sincerely respected the detail shown to each and every dish, regardless of my preference for one over another. Certainly this is a meal that I will not forget!

Mourad

San Francisco, CA

The tastes of Morocco are exquisitely created with local Northern Californian ingredients at Mourad, which is the signature of chef Mourad Lahlou. Before establishing himself as a notable, he was raised in Medina of Marrakesh and came to the United States when he was twenty years old. He has since attained many accomplishments, such as winning Iron Chef America in 2009 and earning a Michelin star at his restaurant Aziza in 2010, the first time this designation was given to Moroccan cuisine. My lunch experience at Mourad left me with a clear appreciation for his skills.

Balanced. Beautiful balance was my experience at this venue. I only regret that it was just for lunch as I can only imagine the possibilities that a dinner could present based on the tastes that I had whilst sitting at the bar.

The bartender provided thorough descriptions and displayed endless patience as I asked multiple questions and weighed my options. My slow arrival at a decision was partially due to that being my predisposition  and in part because I had viewed a menu prior to my arrival that had been the dinner options, limiting my choices considerably at the noon hour. Nonetheless, I experienced no disappointments when the food arrived.



Toast with smoked avocado, lightly pickled albacore, grapefruit, and marash ash.
The toast was simple and provided a conduit for the delivery of the toppings that took avocado toast to the next level. The avocado was smoked and generously slathered across the bread and topped with a thick slice of albacore tuna that was characterized by a mild vinegar flavor, as it was slightly pickled. This was nicely accompanied by the tart grapefruit. Overall, it was a surprisingly fresh take to the often predictable and ever popular avocado toast that is offered on so many menus currently.



Warm smoked salmon with fennel, olives, blood orange sauce and fresh z'hug. Z'hug is a Moroccan spice mix with cardamon, coriander, cumin, garlic, caraway, parsley, red pepper flake, and cilantro.

The plating was beautiful and the first bite I took was characterized by the taste of smoke that was heightened by the aroma that wafted across the room as the plate was presented. The bartender reported that the scent even turns heads in a busy restaurant. However, it was not overpowering as the sweet and citrus of the blood orange provided a staunch contrast. The olive was a mild green olive that added primarily texture in it's minced like consistency. Further, the dish was decorated delicately with curls of fennel, another layer of flavor. The sauce was thick enough to cling to the components of the dish from its position laying under and alongside the fish rather than being too thin, sufficiently adding it's flavor to each forkful.


I was won over by the complexity of flavors and unique spices complimenting the perfectly cooked food! Chef Mourad Lahlou has a new fan!

Food and Friendships

Wine and Cheese Night
Los Angeles, California

Prior to this, my writing has been focused on illustrating food experiences that I enjoy outside of my home. Yet, so many meals occur across tables in our home. Not only is this because of the necessity of nourishing ourselves regularly, but so often in order to also nourish our relationships with others. The ambiance can be anything from a formal gathering to sitting around casually in comfortable clothing. The particular evening I'll highlight was at my apartment with six ladies confidently embracing acceptance of their authentic and natural selves, evidenced by wearing yoga pants and sweatshirts. Each person came bearing lovely cheese offerings to pair with bottles of wine and other snacks.

With no structure provided, everyone naturally gathered around the collected contributions and chatter was ceaseless amongst ladies that had formerly not all known one another. If nothing else, conversation could always return to what was being consumed. We talked about how things tasted, where it came from, what it reminded us of, and encouraged others to partake in a bite that we had enjoyed. My personal favorite of the evening was the Purple Haze Cypress Grove Chèvre lavender goat milk cheese. It was a creamy, floral, and mildly tangy with a gentle, yet still contrasting flavor, for my tongue that stood out against the crackers, berries, and wine. Usually, I enjoy textured cheese with crystalized salt when I am drinking red wine, but we did not have a cheese similar to that on the table nor something more intense and bold, such as a stilton.

I return from the digression on cheese back to the commonality created by a shared table. Partaking in a meal together allows for sharing an experience and then a connection can be formed, even if it be with someone who began as a stranger. Connections can be made with someone who we may otherwise have very little in common. Sometimes the lack of commonalities actually turns out to be more of an assumption that truth. This idea made me wonder, what if we sought out this connection? What if we looked for those with whom we believe we have less in common? Could creating a space to share food be an avenue through which to reduce barriers and prejudice?

A familiar gripe I have heard repeatedly in recent months is the observation that there is not tolerance observed consistently in our country for those who present in one way or another as being different. If that is the case, then why not take steps to find commonalities rather than differences? I find myself often in impromptu discussion wherever I go. It might be with a cashier, a waitress,  or a fellow diner. This occurs because I am open to the conversation. I may or may not initiate the discussion, but I expand on it rather than cutting it short or appearing dismissive or preoccupied. I give my attention. It takes only a moment to share a laugh or a complaint and then we have a moment of understanding each other where one had not existed before. We connect. We share a moment of humanity. One of the biggest lessons I have acquired because of these moments is to not judge someone by how they appear. I believe this has resulted in reducing my biases and leaving me with a more open mind to accept someone else. I also have come to believe that different does not necessarily mean wrong. It also does not mean that I need ascribe to the other person's beliefs. However, I am open to respectfully listening what they have to say and looking to appreciate that there is a reason why they act and feel as they do. Just as I may want someone to appreciate and understand my perspectives. How can I expect someone to do this for me if I do not do it for others? If I wish someone else to behave in a manner that I can respect, then should I not also hold myself to this same standard? Let us challenge ourselves to be the change that we wish to see in the world. Maybe this can begin across a shared table. In summary, perhaps we could each consider being open to finding similarities rather than focusing on our differences. Of course, I suggest this endeavor be embarked upon while enjoying something tasty! Cheers!

A Food Affair

Los Angeles, California

Chef Christian Royere and his wife, Babette, were an integral part of my experience at A Food Affair. They live up to one of the quotations graciously greeting patrons that reads "Come as a stranger, leave as family".

Chef Royere is from France, where he attended culinary school before working in restaurants in both France and Los Angeles. All of this was only following his early cooking experiences with his mother. A picture of her still adorns the restaurant walls that she watches over as a dignified woman peering out into the restaurant from the picture frame, pleased to show forth a large pot filled with her creation. Chef Royere's career then included working in restaurants in both France and Los Angeles.

I was fortunate to receive the chef to my table when he came by to inquire as to how we were enjoying our experience. He then readily engaged in conversation and excitedly explained each dish thoroughly for us. Although I would love to think my visit was unique, it appears that he graciously visited each set of guests in the restaurant that evening.

Alaskan Dungeness Crab Cakes with melon, jicama, mango, cilantro, scallion, coconut curry yogurt.

This dish was a pleasing start to the meal. The cake was almost entirely made of just crab, rather than having other fillers added and it was very lightly fried to provide a thin crust on the outside with a subtle citrus flavor permeating through it. The yogurt was the texture of a mayonnaise and added a nice creaminess to the salad that added a crisp and crunchy texture with a mild tanginess from the pomegranate seeds to balance the sweetness of the mango in the salad and the sauce dotted around the plate. I could have eaten an entire plate of the accompanying jicama and mango salad since it was a combination of sweet, tart, and crunchy, appealing on a diverse level to my tongue.


Brussel Sprouts with caramelized onion, hazelnuts, dates, pancetta.




This was ordered with the pancetta omitted, due to my body's intolerance for pork (I will likely lament this endlessly in my writing). Although the saltiness certainly would have added more depth to the dish, it was very tasty with the sweetness of the camelized onions and dates and squash to contrast the mild bitterness possessed by Brussel sprouts, which I was very happy to see added to the plate, as it was not listed on the menu. The hazelnuts added their buttery caramel flavor for a more dynamic bite and was a nice selection over other nuts that may have ended a more bitter or neutral flavor.







Wild Diver Sea Scallop with heirloom cauliflower risotto, asparagus, zucchini, artichoke, citrus glaze.

The cauliflower risotto had a deeply flavorful risotto like salty cheesiness that was creamy and rich. No hint of bitterness was to be found and the texture was certainly akin to that of a risotto, albeit a healthier option. This was enhanced with the roasted flavors of the vegetables and the citrus glaze on the sea scallops was a nice deviation from other preparations that I have had. Not only did it contribute sweetness, but also a brittle case around the scallop without impacting the scallop in retaining tenderness.

Bouillabaisse with manilla clams, PE mussels, Louisiana shrimp,  alaskan cod, Hawaiian Mahi Mahi, pacific rock fish, seafood saffron broth, garlic rouille

The broth was rich, but light with fronds of fennel adding not only to the appearance of the plate, but also an anise aromatics to each bite. It was veritably enjoyable. How can I have so little to say?!?

Coconut Creme Caramel coconut milk, mango, caramelized banana, toasted coconut, pepitas, mango coulis





A light, sweet, and fruity finish to a meal that offered multiple dishes that were well balanced and interesting without being too traditional nor particularly unusual. This was a light and airy pudding with a thin layer of coconut chips as a foundation to marry with the sweetness of the mango and bananas. I would have enjoyed a more caramelized and sweet banana, although the dessert was sweet enough, but I maintain that the firmness of the bananas would have been more appealing had they been softened by caramelization.










French Chocolate Mousse including chocolate mousse, ganache, hint of passion fruit

Beautifully presented plating for a firm mousse with a soft ganache, when I expected a hard shell of chocolate. The chocolate pearls were a much needed textural component, of which I would have added more. After several bites, I would have liked more contrast in flavors to accompany the chocolate richness, such as more fruit or a bitterness of coffee bean, or even a more neutral, but crunch element. The passion fruit I found to be too mild, so I would have made it more than just a "hint" for the one note of chocolate that was the majority of this dessert.

Edmon

Los Angeles, California

Edmon is a newly opened restaurant adjacent to the Hollywood Historic Hotel, an art deco building from the 1920s on Santa Monica Boulevard in Los Angeles. The executive chef is Gabriel Cappella, a man who has had prior experience working at numerous restaurants as well as studying under Chef Michel Nischan (who has been a James Beard Award winner three times). Not too shabby! All of this to say, that I was certainly curious to experience it for myself and my anticipation increased when I arrived at the entrance to find the beautifully refurbished restaurant that maintained the ambiance of old without any trace of overly dankness remaining. It was classy!

Aviation gin, earl grey honey, amaro montenegro, lemon shaken on rocks ($12)
Prior to exploring the food menu, The Tea's Knees was the cocktail I sipped on. The drink was balanced with a hint of something I likely would not have been able to identify had I not seen Earl Grey Tea listed as one of the ingredients. I would have enjoyed a more intense Earl Grey essence in the flavor, but it was a smooth drink for which I had no other complaint.




Deep fried jackfruit, prickly pear slaw, "Jamaican jerk" coconut jerky, plantain tortillas ($15)
I was excited to try the fried plantain tortilla that was on the menu, which I first had in Columbia last year. This maintained a mild sweetness that combined well with the jerk flavor and the spiciness in a sauce. Nonetheless, I thought the flavors could have been presented more evenly spread. Each bite I had was disappointingly different. When I enjoyed a bite, it was really good, but others were lacking. I attribute this to not having a dish in which it is easy to visualize the various sauces, so it was unclear if all were present or not when scooping up a bite.



Scallops, lobster rillette, asparagus, sun choke veloute ($32).
The scallops were perfectly prepared and, again, this plate was complimented by a subtly unusual flavor with the earthiness of sun choke puree. The Salmon Rillette was fried, which I did not anticipate and added saltiness to the dish. I had expected, and would have enjoyed, the creamy texture of the rillette had it not been fried.



Pheasant breast, vegetable demi place made with dates, saffron quinoa, salsify, fried garbanzo beans, pistachio sour cream ($29)
The preparation of the pheasant reminded me of a duck confit, albeit less fatty. Nicely prepared with evident tenderness, but without a rich flavor that paired with a savory reduction that was sweet and provided much needed enhancement to elevate the pheasant. The quinoa was so nice in texture that I thought it was actually couscous, a lovely bite when sometimes quinoa can be a tad gooey. The saffron seasoning was a fantastic idea, too!

For dessert, bread pudding was explained by the waitress as the only option. It was delivered on a rectangle, single-serving, cast iron skillet that was much too large a portion considering that it was dessert. The bread pudding was actually savory. The breading was a combination of wheat bread and another bread that I cannot recall. Although it was described as being a maple bread pudding with white honey, it was not all sweet and disappointingly heavy as a dessert.

Overall, it the food was solid, but I am sad to say that the ambiance is what I enjoyed most of all when I am there because of the food! 

Racion

Pasadena, California

Racion delivered an experience that was unexpectedly on point!

This restaurant was established in 2012 with a focus on providing cuisine using local California ingredients with unique takes on dishes that are traditional to the Basque region in Spain. The unique twist comes from incorporating Asian influences into their flavors. In other words, creatively thinking outside the box with the details of each plate, which I appreciate! After eating here, I want to visit again so I can taste the entire menu!

I was looking forward to trying a few of the tapas that I had noticed on the menu that I viewed prior to deciding on this as a dining destination. However, I was not anticipating how multifaceted the flavors would be for each dish that was presented. Here is what I tried:

Smoked White Fish, Cucumber, fennel, lemon aioli, seeded cracker ($12).
This was presented on a single large cracker, approximately three inches by six inches. The cracker was firm, but easily broken in order to take a portion to eat. The cracker was covered in a creamy like white fish mixture that was primarily fish with a subtle, but unmistakeable smokey flavor. I am always relieved when a plate like this is focused on the fish rather than being overwhelmed by a filler ingredient such as mayonnaise or bread. It was complemented by the light freshness of the lemon, cucumber, and fennel, a more unusual combination than the typical pairing of lemon with fish. It really was a refreshing and balanced bite without one flavor unbalancing any other!


Beef tongue banuelos, horseradish creme, pickles ($11). Armed with my knowledge of traditional banuelos, these were nothing like I expected. It was delivered as a small and soft biscuit with a generous tower of tender beef tongue that was draped in thin slices and then topped off with a dollop of horseradish creme and accompanied by pickled onion and peppers on the side. The horseradish was much too mild. I did not experience any of the anticipated zing that one imagines from horseradish, which was disappointing considering that the biscuit was also bland. However, the acidity of the pickles was what was needed. The bite transformed to being lovely as the acidity counteracted the less flavorful intensity of the other components. Clearly it was meant to be consumed with the pickles! I added cracked black pepper to this dish to make up for the lack of spice in the horseradish. It is worth mentioning that the beef was perfectly tender and reminded me of an upscale Italian Beef sandwich reminiscent of street food in Chicago.

Salt cod fritters, lemon cream ($7). This came highly recommended from the waitress. It was a very light and fluffy fried ball that flattened immediately with any attempt to stab or cut it. There was not a trace of the typical crispness of a fried food. The first one I ate was warm and, although it was good, the delicate flavors were masked and I did not understand why the waitress had spoken so highly of it. As the fritters cooled to being warm, the flavors came across as limited to salt and lemon, a point from which it continued to improve as it cooled. When it arrived at cooling to room temperature, I much preferred how well I could taste the lemon cream contrasting with the fishy flavor and it allowed for the potato flavor to be detected as well. I even ate one cold and then it reminded me of a lemon cream pie or lemon cookie. I would recommend inviting diners to eat it only when it has cooled.



Lamb meatballs, basque cider, picon, licorice greens ($12). This was one of my favorites. The white sauce was creamy with salty cheese notes, reminding me of a manchego fondue. This gave way to a rich, but subtle, flavor from the slight caramelization of the picon and cider followed finally by the release of the distinct flavor from the lamb, which was rich and fatty, all balanced by the contrasting mild anise flavor. I requested more licorice greens to add to the meatballs since the heavy flavors of the meat and sauce did well with greens to lighten the bite. I cut the meatballs into tiny pieces since I did not want this dish to end and it was rich enough to savor in tiny tastes.









Gambas al ajillo, nora chile, garlic, horseradish broth ($16). I literally wanted to drink this broth! I never would have known that horseradish was one of the flavors in the broth, as it was so subtle in a wonderful manner. I have a strong association with the word horseradish implying intense, but with this broth, it added a distinct and gentle flavor. Perhaps it could be analogous to a broth with ginger notes. It was a thicker viscosity that must have been reduced, in the same way that a glaze thickening as it simmers. The broth was paired to contrast with a smokey chile streaked on the plate. Additionally, there was a creamy cheese and thin slices of very mild garlic. This created another dish that was so perfectly balanced and subtle that I did not wanted it to end. The flavors combined to create a comforting bite. This item was characterized by lighter flavors than many of the other dishes, making me not want to interrupt the flavor by tasting anything else that would mar my palate until I was completely finished and ready to move on to something else.

Duck sausage stuffed squid

Duck sausage stuffed squid, salsa tinta, duck jamon ($18). This is known to be a remarkable dish at this restaurant and obviously took much time and effort to create. The salty sausage was tasty without being as heavy in fat content as I anticipated, making for a lighter bite that I was prepared for (based on my experiences with eating duck). The sausage was carefully filling tiny rolls of squid and was accompanied by duck prosciutto laid carefully on top and adding a touch of salt to the dish. This was contrasted by what was labeled as "salsa tinta". It adorned the dish with a graceful swish on the plate and reminded me of the richness of a black bean sauce. I chewed each bite so slowly, as it felt like eating a work of art!






Crema Catalina was the dessert I tasted. It had candied pistachios with tiny meringues, a caramel sauce made of dates and nuts to accompany a light citrus mouse with a delicate pistachio crusted cookie. Although there were many components to it, the dessert was fairly straight forward making it a nice ending to a long meal. It was light with the clean flavors of citrus, but with richness brought in through the creaminess. Furthermore, the date caramel intensified the sweetness without being overwhelming. It was refreshing while still being rich, but I did not appreciate the addition of the meringues, as they were not flavored and simply added to the presentation of the dish, as well as adding another texture, but the crunchiness of the nuts and cookie would have been adequate for the purpose. I thought it surprising that the meringues did not appear to be contribuing to the dish considering each of the other dishes we tasted had an unmistakable purpose for each ingredient. Perhaps the meringues could have been pistachio flavored?


This was a very nice meal. As I mentioned at the beginning, it was characterized by unexpected detail in each dish.