The Restaurant at Meadowood

Saint Helena, California




I have seen this restaurant lauded as one of the best in the country. Therefore, it was with much anticipation that I approached the imposing doorway housed within the rustic entrance of The Restaurant at Meadowood. The secluded buildings were situated in the middle of a forested area that can be reached only after winding down a long road that was endlessly flanked with large trees on either side, creating a permeating sense of privacy.

Upon entering, I was greeted warmly in a room with an impressive fireplace and was then escorted to the adjoining room. This area had a tiny bar to the left and several armchairs to the right that sat beside a floor to ceiling set of windows. Beyond that, I could see there was a dining room with several tables. However, I dined at the bar. This location may have impacted my experience as the other diners appeared to agitate the bartender rather than him engaging the usual convivial interactions that I have come to relish when I am out solo.



The first bite offered was a beignet wrapped in the crispy peel from a sunchoke and filled with a creme center. It was topped with a sprinkle of yeast and several varieties of dried mushrooms that had been foraged in the surrounding area. This was savory and delicate while also having the chewiness from the beignet dough. The dough was not overpowering and the crispy sunchoke provided a nice contrast in texture. A nicely delivered bite!



Next, a chilled soup was presented. It was created with meat from dungeness crab legs and was dotted with oil characterized by having the essence of seafood due to being gently warmed with the head of the crab  in order to provide additional seafood flavor. Also in the dish was egg gelee as well as being accompanied by crab roe in housemade almond milk. This was lightly flavored overall, likely in part due to the limiting effect that results from serving a dish cold. The concept of a cold bite was appreciated, but the day was chilly and the flavor lacked the intensity I desired to experience from the crab. Although the egg gelee was a creative touch, I was dismayed to find a shell suspended in the broth, an unexpected flaw at such a highly regarded establishment. The server apologetically swept the dish away from my place setting and did not replace it for me to attempt to enjoy again.



The presentation of dishes continued with brief breaks between courses. Salted mackerel with winter vegetable escabeche included mackerel pieces that were comparable to sashimi in size while being covered with bitter winter vegetables. The bitterness seemed to be due to the cooking process and I found the crisp kale and broccoli flavors to maintain a heartiness and sharpness that was overpowering to the fish. Thus, I inquired about the chef's intention when combining the bitter flavors with the mackerel. In the past, I have found that asking questions at highly regarded eateries often leads to a fascinating conversation about the composition of the dish. However, the server simply stated that he would not pretend to understand the intent of the chef. The response was unfulfilling to my curious mind and also left a void for my understanding of the dish, which was certainly intentional.



Whelk shells with onion horseradish nasturtium was explained as being delivered in a buttery rich broth. The curls of pasta were filled with snail and floating among tender radishes and onions. The taste was rich from the broth with a mild pepper from the nasturtium leaves that was enjoyable, but without creating an indelible memory. The pasta retained a lightness to contrast the heavy broth, a thoughtful compliment of the two within the same dish.





The artful unveiling of plates continued with beef smoked in dry onion tops. It was delivered in a wooden box that was uncovered before me allowing the pungent aroma of smoke to float out from the crispy onion tops. Enhancing the interaction with this dish, it was served by freshly pressing and swirling the garlic into the sauce as I watched. Additionally, there was an accompanying light white creamy onion sauce with the flowers from onions dotted on top. The wagu was characterized by the defining tenderness  of wage that is attained from the soft quality of the fat that it is known for. Although it had been smoked, the smokey flavor was light and the meat was improved by the sauce, which added further softness and creaminess to the palate. A perfect bite of beautiful protein with richness that melted on the tongue.








The sweeter bites of the evening were commenced with parsnip caramelized whey with white truffle ice cream, an interesting combination that I very much appreciated. The sweetness of the parsnip was highlighted through the cooking it to caramelization. This was served below a delicate lacy tuile cookie and a dollop of white truffle ice cream, providing a buttery rich flavor. The parsnip was held in a sturdy pastry shell that I found to be overpowering for the amount of parsnip in the center. It covered the flavor of the tiny cubes of parsnip, making it difficult to detect. Had the pastry been less dominate or the parsnip ratio increased, this would have been a fantastic dessert.

The final offering of the evening was a truffle with walnut and black apple that certainly required much effort to assemble. The inside consisted of a thick and gummy walnut flavor that was enrobed in the skin from a black apple, lending a gorgeous color, but without a prominent flavor. When I have tasted black apples, they have a soft and mealy texture with a striking black skin and mildly sweet flavor. This was an enjoyable, beautifully executed, albeit not memorable, truffle. My expectations, which are based in prior experiences, are set high for such a notable establishment as this. Personally, creative and unique flavors and techniques are what I hope for, in addition to impeccable service. How disappointed I felt with the Restaurant at Meadowood falling short on both counts for me.

I had the great pleasure of being invited to view the kitchen prior to my departure. I was pristine. There were glass jars filled with various foraged items that had been preserved in one fashion or another lined up on shelves along one of the walls. The remainder of the kitchen was overwhelmingly stark white against steel appliances portraying a tastefully streamlined aesthetic. 

I was sent off with a chorus of "thank you" from the kitchen staff as I exited the room only after bombarding one of the chefs with my inquiries about the inspirations and choices for various plates. He indulged my questions, but without providing replies that afforded any passion for his craft. Although the food was excellently prepared, it was more traditional and straightforward than I had expected of such a notable establishment. Further, my experience was impacted by the generally lackluster exchanges with each of the staff. I left feeling that the meal was enjoyable, but not unforgettable.

Cocoa Parlor

Laguna Niguel, California

This homey chocolate parlor has a deceptively tiny storefront that serves as a dispatch location for sending out huge amounts of organic chocolate bars. Perhaps you will find the product hidden beyond the entrance to be familiar? I have seen the simple brown wrappers amongst the quality treats stocked in boutique shops.

The minimalist artwork of cheerful line drawings that decorate the exterior of the chocolate bars are illustrated by the chocolate maker, Karen Webster, demonstrating her involvement in all aspects of the company.



Karen has a background as a pastry chef, but in time focused on chocolate. She has sought out sourcing single origin fermented chocolate from small, organic, fair trade farms in Peru and the Dominican Republic. Karen took two years to perfect the chocolate recipe, which has resulted in the current production of bars, truffles, and other treats that are entirely organic.

Richard was the gentleman working in the shop the day that I stopped in and he emphasized that everything in the store is organic, non- GMO, and soy free. Aside from some of the truffles that contain organic cream or milk, most of the chocolates are also vegan. Several of the cookie options are gluten free. Only the chocolate bars are sold outside of this little shop with the other treats necessitating a visit in person!

The truffle flavors that I found laid out in perfect rows during my visit included chocolate orange, raspberry, black seed curry, caramel jungle, peanut butter crunch, peanut butter milk chocolate, peanut butter dark chocolate, caramel milk chocolate, caramel dark chocolate, hazelnut, cappuccino, espresso, cinnamon latte, dark chocolate, milk chocolate, and coconut.





Organic coffee and hot chocolate is also available with a little bar supplied with various additions provided to personalize any drink. Of course, these carefully lined up containers were also all organic. I was impressed that they provide such accommodations for the customer to personalize their experience of the  already excellent products.

The benefit of stopping into the store were the several chocolate bark flavors available in the case that are not sold anywhere else. The flavors on the day that I visited included cranberry hazelnut, cashew bark, almond bark, and goji berry hemp.
















Aside from the fantastic chocolate, the storefront boasts more than half a dozen different cookies with gluten free options available as well. Although the shop is just large enough for a bistro table, a couch, and coffee table for patrons, there is an assortment of treats is adequate to satisfy any sweet tooth.

The minimal shelves lining the walls are laden with high quality gift boxes and goods such as organic nuts and dried fruits.

Definitely give the Cocoa Parlor chocolate bars a try when you see them at a store, but if you ever find yourself in the vicinity of Laguna Niguel, this is worth the stop! 

To allow you to judge if my critique is qualified at all, here are the chocolate makers (those that actually make the chocolate from the cacao beans) that I have visited and toured: 

Fresh Coast chocolate 
Pitch Dark Chocolate 

Ranger chocolate

Creo chocolate 

Dick Taylor chocolate 

Dude, sweet chocolate

Anandamide psychedelicatessen

Mast Brothers

Here are the chocolatiers (those who make confections from the chocolate that has come from a chocolate maker) and other notable chocolate and sweets shops that I have visited (and can remember): 

Jacques Torres Chocolate
L'Artisan du chocolat 
John Kelly Chocolates 

Marsatta fancy chocolates 

See's Candies

Mama Ganache Artisan Chocolates 

Compartes Chocolates

Essential Chocolate Desserts

Lady Chocolatt

Valerie Confections

Vosges Haut Chocolate 

Fran's Chocolates

Cocoabella Chocolates 
Sweet!

Hammonds Candies Factory

A Real Treat Candy Boutique

The Meadow 
Recchiuti Confections

Chocolopolis
Lolli and Pops
Sugarfina
K Chocolatier By Diane Kron
Edelweiss Chocolates 
ChocoVivo
Mignon Chocolate
Grom 
Teuscher Chocolates and Cafe

Juniper and Ivy

San Diego, California




Situated on an active street in San Diego's Little Italy, Juniper and Ivy greeted me with a cheerful green sign while the full light of the day still encompassed it. The inside revealed vaulted ceilings, allowing an airy atmosphere, even amongst the packed tables.

Before beginning the meal, I perused the drink menu and found myself mildly disappointed, as each of the cocktails represented a traditional recipe rather than containing any creative or bold offering. Upon tasting their take on the Old Fashioned, I found it to be a well made drink and I noted it was a trace thicker in viscosity than usual, a detail that I appreciated, as I am ever in search of a unique interpretation of any food.

The amuse-bouche offered was a bite size deviled egg. It was recommended by the waiter that we partake of this treat in a single bite, but I could not resist my own method of tasting it. I could see that the yolk was sitting atop a crystalized like egg white and my curiosity got the best of me. Against his advice, my teeth nibbled at the edge of the egg. I am so very happy that I did this! The bottom part was a sweet and crunchy crystalized white. I am unsure what it was actually made of, but it reminded me of formed and shaped sugar, although it did not appear to be entirely sugar. Nestled on this was the expected whipped texture of the egg yolk with a beautiful bright chive flavor in addition to another savory flavor that was challenging to identify. Perhaps it was another green herb such as thyme? It was mildly earthy and crowned with caviar to add a popping texture. Sprinkled all around was dehydrated egg yolk, which added visual interest as well as a powdery salt flavor. This was delightful and playful and unique. It was a balanced marriage of sweet and salty. I loved it!




Our Buttermilk Biscuit- smoked salt, butter

This is not typically something I would order, but I had been told that this biscuit is notable. On the menu, there is an option to order it with fois gras butter. I opted for the plain butter in order to taste the flavor of the biscuit. This plate was delivered impressively under a smoke filled dome. The waiter slowly lifted the dome off as he swished it side to side, spreading the aroma of smoke. The outside of the biscuit was crusty and the flavor was distinctively a permeating, but gentle, smokey flavor from the wood. As I continued to eat through the personal size case iron dish, I found the biscuit to dry, but I enjoyed it as I added more butter that melted into the remaining dough and the smokey flavor lasted until the end, justifying their claim that the biscuit is unique.




I was seated at the "cold bar" where the desserts were being made, which allowed me front row seats to see the waiter add extra smoke into the dome, which appeared to be pumped in via pressure valve through a hole in the glass dome. This certainly enhanced the smoked essence that the biscuit already retained from cooking.












Pink snapper ceviche- naval orange, cashews, mint, pickled carrot, curry snow

I expected this dish to be layered in flavors and exciting with the curry "snow" emphasized by the waitress as being unique. My first impression of the dish was discovering that the cashews were either forgotten or so minimal on the plate that the wait staff revised the dish by adding extra nuts sprinkled on top. My favorite part of this dish was the mint which combined with the other flavors and brightened the curry. This will be a combination that I intend to use myself in the future.



The curry aspect of the dish was a thick and creamy paste consistency rather than an icy texture, as I had expected from the description that used the word "snow". Additionally, the pickled carrot was minimal. It was a nearly undetectable addition to the flavors on the plate with only small disks dotted stingily through the plate. I also found the dish challenging to manipulate since it was delivered with large pieces of snapper and uncut slices of navel orange. I ended up cutting each bite that I took rather than being able to scoop the pieces of fish as they had been presented.








Ahi Tuna Wellington- mushroom duxelle, short rib, gravy, horseradish fingerling potatoes


This selection was such an innovative idea. An unusual take on a traditional Beef Wellington, the Ahi tuna was wrapped in a puff pastry that had been spread with short rib. The tuna remained perfectly seared and was accompanied by fingerling potatoes that were surprisingly simple. No special cooking technique had been applied to the potatoes that I could detect, although they were lightly topped with fine shreds of horseradish, adding just a touch of spice. The dish was adorned with delicate mustard greens. I may have used a spicier green, such as arugula, to add a peppery pop. Bites of the tuna were  flawlessly tender and  rich with the accompanying short rib. The tuna concept was very memorable, but would have been enhanced by a side of earthy vegetables, perhaps with a balsamic glaze. Alternatively, maybe a starch with umami essence, such as a toothy rice with mushrooms. The mushroom duxelle on the plate did lend an earthiness, but remained separate rather than combining well with the potatoes due to both retaining their solid form, as the potatoes were not mashed or chopped to open them up to absorbing other flavors.





Here was my view, as I perched directly across the counter from the cold kitten where the desserts were being prepared.

A few things that I saw leaving the kitchen are pictured below.

On the left in the picture below is the banana panna cotta- peanut bark, toasted angel food cake, passion fruit ice cream

On the right side of the picture is the Yodel- devil's cake, white chocolate, hazelnut brittle, hot chocolate




I did not order either of the above selections, but instead decided on the Almond Joy- soft chocolate, marcona almonds, coconut sorbet, pavlova

The pavlova on this dessert was divine. It had only a slight crust on the outside and soft and gooey inside that was reminiscent of a heavy marshmallow texture. The coconut sorbet was thick and gooey as well, holding up nicely underneath the other items. On the top was crumbled kefir lime that had been dehydrated and crushed. The green feathers of green dropped nonchalantly around the plate were sorrel, which added not only a bright pop of color, but also a touch of earthiness to contrast the sweetness of the other flavors. The depth of this was unexpected with the greens providing so much balance. Very enjoyable!









Another sweet bite was birthday cake with vanilla ice cream

Fairly unremarkable, but fulfilling the definition of a traditional birthday cake with a cake that was thick and subtly sticky without any hint of dryness. Layered between the cake were thick swatches of icing, cherry and vanilla were the flavors I picked out. They were very dense frostings with a board layer of fondant on top that had no real flavor, as is typical of fondant. The ice cream was a homemade vanilla that was refreshing. They also made a pepper ice cream that I requested on the side. It had just a hint of cracked black pepper that teased the tongue with each lick. I enjoyed this as I often add a touch of cracked black pepper to plain vanilla ice cream, but the flavor of their concoction was more subtle that adding fresh cracked pepper. It was very satisfying fulfillment of the anticipated flavor.






Sour apple macaroons

The final bite was a perfect finish. Tiny sour apple macaroons arrived with the check. The little size was appreciated after completing a large meal and the delicate sour flavor served as a palate cleanser. The fairly pliable cookies surrounded a thin layer of nearly runny frosting that carried the tart flavor. Delightful!




My opinion is that it would be worthwhile to perhaps stop in at Juniper and Ivy for a few interesting items on the menu if you find yourself in San Diego. The menu does change nightly, but I could not say that my experience was at the top of my list of favorites. Cheers!

Commonwealth

San Francisco, California





This is the type of restaurant that I seek after and am always thrilled when I discover something of it's caliber! Each dish was a creative interpretation with significant effort made in delivering unique illustrations of texture and flavor throughout the meal. I would imagine that anything one orders off of this menu is impressive.

The restaurant is just forty-five seats with Chef Jason Fox creating the exciting and experimental menu. This lauded spot has been open since 2010 and has garnered semifinalist status for Best New Restaurant from the James Beard Foundation, as well as attaining the status of a single Michelin star in 2016. Furthermore, the restaurant boasts giving back to the community. For every diner who orders the tasting menu, ten dollars is given to a local nonprofit organization. The beneficiaries of the donation change every two weeks.

Now, on to the food!

Seaweed potato chips with vinegar foam.
This was certainly a play on fish and chips for me. It reminded me of salt and vinegar chip with the seaweed and then was not heavy or overbearing with flavor due to the frothy lightness of the vinegar foam. What a delightfully playful bite to dip a crispy chip into foam! Although the foam was not heavy, it retained enough body to also not melt or dissolve immediately when scooped onto the chip.

Smoked squash, kohlrabi, fromage blanc, buckwheat, wild herbs, pumpkin consommé
This had an outstanding smokiness that was unmistakably comparable to a campfire, but still retaining the sweetness of the applewood used during the smoking process. It had a thick and meaty essence rather than the soft texture one might expect from a cooked squash. Simple remarkable compared to any other squash I have had. The bites were punctuated infrequently by the crunchiness of the buckwheat, of which I would have sprinkled more liberally. The pumpkin consommé was also a creative and unusual idea that truly had the characteristics of a thin, yet hearty, broth. Was surprised that it remained clear, although it was constituted by pumpkin. The herbs also could have been more intense for me due to the strong smokiness of this selection.

Sea urchin, chilled beet custard, smoked bone marrow cream, nasturtium, yuzu kasha

Sea urchin, chilled beet custard, smoked bone marrow cream, nasturtium, yuzu kasha

I have learned to anticipate that urchin will be salty and overwhelmingly "sea" like in taste, but this was a superior idea, demonstrating again the menu being outside of the box. Paired with the urchin was a beet custard that was quite a thick texture, as one would expect with a custard. It was sweet, but with added subtle smokiness from the cream, unlike the strong smokiness delivered on the previous dish. I wonder if perhaps the smokiness would not have been such a subtle experience for me had I not just enjoyed the smoked squash prior to this? That could have been a welcome recommendation from the waiter, as I would have no other way to know that one flavor might overpower the next. 

Mussels, cipollini, trout roe, charred cabbage, saffron, chervil, oyster cream

This plate was the most straightforward, but certainly delivered a perfect bite with the oyster sauce that was enriched further by the saffron. For me, the texture contrast of the robustly popping trout rose was most notable with each bite. This added a refreshing component to flavors that may have otherwise been too rich. The mussels could have been more tender in my opinion, but were cooked both in the shell and then again after being hulled, so I was concerned that this would obliterate any chance for them to remain tender. Additionally, the cabbage was too large and unwieldy on the plate, so I cut it. However, this was an action achieved only after some difficulty due to it's texture after being cooked, but it was nonetheless a nice boat for carrying the sauce, which I did not want left behind on the plate. 

Black truffle dumplings with bok choy, egg yolk jam, black garlic pearls, and mushroom broth

This melted immediately when eaten! It truly dissolved nearly the moment that it landed on the tongue with a very soft consistency. The pungency of the bok chop was too sharp and bitter a contrast for me, but the broth was superior with the egg jam adding an exclamation point that made this unforgettable. 

This difficult-to-impress writer departed from this particular meal feeling very satisfied with the details and creativity occurring consistently. Aside from the feeling that each plate was pricey, it was a delightful excursion. It was clear that significant effort was dedicated to each installment on the menu, making the price point seem more reasonable. Please do enjoy this stop if you have the opportunity! Cheers!

Wolfdown

Los Angeles, California

The ambiance of this restaurant was a highlight of the evening. I felt as though I was in a private home or sophisticated tree house due to the relatively low ceilings with raw wood beams that were reminiscent of a bungalow, but with the juxtaposition of being more modernized by the selection of tile and glass across the front of the open kitchen. There is additional outdoor seating that would be very lovely in warmer weather.

In contrast, I generally felt that the dishes were overpriced for the portion size and limited delivery on flavor when considering comparative establishments. Maybe some small modifications could make me change my mind since the food was close to what I wanted it to be, but without effectively grabbing my attention as it was predictable and lackluster in flavor and I am forever seeking the unique.


I was very happy with the recommendation of the red wine I had with dinner, which was Matthieu Barnet Petit Ours Brun, Cotes du Rhone. Smooth and jammy without being sweet nor heavy with tannins.

I also enjoyed a glass of white wine, which was the Pascal Javier "Jasnieres", Chenin Blanc, Loire. Again, a smooth and crisp white without being oaky.







Warm Celery Root Salad: Shaved celery root, Bagna cauda, fennel, celery, capers

I found this to be bland. Each green ingredient delivered a clean taste, but without a pop in flavor. If a more flavorful dressing had been evident, this could have been enjoyable. Anything would have been a benefit to add to the complexity of this dish. Spice. Smoke. Anything. The capers were the most interesting addition to this plate and were surprisingly mild. They were almost toasted and could have been mistaken for a pistachio, which I did find to be most interesting!










Braised Black Cod: Black Cod, kochujang, soy, purple daikon, shungiku leaf, Mori's rice

The cod was smooth and buttery. Perfect! This came with a side dish of rice meant to absorb the sauce that was thick, dark, and rich. Nonetheless, this plate was a disappointment in that there was literally only one leaf of Shungiku! The daikon took on a sweet flavor as it does when it is cooked, in contrast to the biting pungent spiciness that it maintains when raw.  Further, I enjoyed the softness that it had, cutting easily like a cooked beet.


Stir Fried Ramen: Temoni ramen noodles, crab, slow cooked egg, uni, trout roe

This was unique in that no broth was delivered, as would be typical of ramen. The snap of the large trout roe added interest and freshest to the spoonfuls I scooped up. I would have enjoyed this more had the volume of crab been increased. I did like that the sauce was created through the cooked egg and uni being stirred into the noodles. I requested pepper to add to my dish as I found it to be too heavily creamy with a salty sea like flavor that was enjoyable, but without an additional contrasting herb to keep my palate interested.




















Misugaru "tiramisu": Mascarpone cream, walnut praline, bourbon, buttermilk cake



The tiramisu dessert was suggested by two of the staff, so I ordered it. This was unique, but not a "must try" in my book. The flavor was that of a tiramisu, but with greater emphasis on the bitterness of walnut that came from a layer that was caramel colored and textured and above a light cake layer and covered in an airy white cream.

Another disappointment of this visit was that we felt neglected by our waitress. Although she was delightful, she rarely checked in on us. To be kind, they have only been open for two weeks at the time of my visit, so I attribute the neglect to the establishment poorly estimating how busy they would be tonight, which appeared to be full, but without anyone waiting to be seated. Overall, this was a nice visit, but did not live up to the high standards that I had hoped for when I think a few small changes would have really allowed me to feel impressed. Nonetheless, worthwhile if you are in the neighborhood.

State Bird Provisions

San Francisco, California

No one wants to be disappointed by a meal, but this is particularly true for me. After walking more than two miles across the city in order to take in the city views and be at least somewhat active between sampling the goodies at the Ferry Building Embarcadero and hopefully eating an exciting dinner, I stood impatiently in line in the drizzle of the San Francisco sky waiting to enter the decidedly casual ambiance of State Bird Provisions. I arrived fifteen minutes prior to when they begin dinner service and a line had already formed. I had tried to make a reservation here, but they were booked. However, I was informed that one third of the restaurant is reserved for walk in seating. My hope in securing a table without having to wait was waning as the doors opened and the line stretched out longer behind me than in front of me. To my delight, I was seated at the bar in a two seat area next to another diner as interested in the food experience as I was. He elevated my hopes by reporting that he had returned here to eat multiple times and enjoys eating well curated food. This claim was substantiated by the restaurants he reported visiting. I was told by others that the experience was overrated, but I find it is difficult to rely on the opinions of others as everyone has a different point of reference for what constitutes "good" food.


The menu was explained to me after I requested to be directed to the most unique dishes. They had multiple pancakes and toasts offered along with other fare and I noticed the diverse ingredients sprinkled throughout the menu. I was happy to find that I could order a half size of many of the items on the menu.

Squash 'mochi' with maitakes, brussels sprouts and grated burgundy truffles
I selected this dish because it sounded like a unique presentation with complex flavors. Unfortunately, it tasted to me exactly like those ingredients placed in a dish. The brussel sprouts were raw without any caramelization to deepen their taste. The mushrooms were softened by cooking, but without me being able to detect any cooking broth or technique to enhance them. Although I could see the truffles, they did not add to the dish either because they were lacking in quantity or not highlighted by contrasting the other flavors adequately. The use of the word 'mochi' was an accurate description of the little squash balls of gooey texture, but again, without a distinctive squash essence. There was a thin sauce that did not cling adequately to the contents of the dish, but reminded me of a soy vinaigrette. I requested cracked black pepper to make the dish more enjoyable for me. This added a contrasting flavor and a grainy texture that I enjoyed. The dish could have been improved by the addition of a spicy note, such as a cayenne, or a sweet addition, such as dates or a honey dressing. I appreciated the unique idea to make mochi, which I viewed as an attempt to make something comparable to an asian gnocchi. Unfortunately, it was not something I can review more positively.




After this somewhat disappointing first selection, I watched as many carts were strolled past me dim sum style. This was a nice experiential aspect of the restaurant. Nonetheless, I did not feel excitement to delve into tasting what was brought around. I also assumed that the dishes would pass more than once, especially as new tables were seated. However, this was not the case and instead I passed my opportunity to make a deliberate selection. My waitress was kind enough to offer that I could order whichever dish I may have wanted. Fantastic service!









Roasted delicate squash with peptic mole and pomegranate
Per the waitresses recommendations, I tried this dish. Aside from her encouragement, I was drawn to this because of the mole and this was the one dish that I could recommend! The mole was thick and deeply flavored with a mild spiciness that contrasted with the tartness and textural popping of the pomegranate seeds as well as the pepitas sprinkled on top. Because the squash was enjoyable, I decided to make one more selection.

Smoked duck 'tsukemono' with umeboshi-rosemary vinaigrette
My hopes were that this would be an unusual take on vinegar since it was paired with the unique choice to make a duck ham, which I did want to taste since my food allergies always force me to not dabble in any dishes with ham. The saltiness of the ham was well executed in texture and flavor, but fell flat from my viewpoint on a dish that could have excelled. Additionally, it was presented as slices that I needed to cut, when it would have been easier to tackle had the pieces been bit size or cut into thin strips. It was plated with raw radishes in chunks that were difficult to manipulate on a fork and had not been given any detectable special preparations, as though tossing a raw vegetable under the duck would suffice. Also on the plate were pickled cucumber, as is often presented with a Chinese meal and typically in a vinegar dressing. Therefore, I appreciate the target of this dish, but it culminated in disappointment for me, as though it was forgotten leftovers plated as a salad haphazardly. If the radishes had been roasted or braised to soften them and sweeten their flavor, the dish would have been transformed, as they would have given the dish a more rich flavor and would have been easier to spear with a fork. Perhaps still serving a raw radish could have been more successful if they had been shaved thinly, similar to the disks of cucumber on the plate. Finally, the vinaigrette was decidedly not rosemary flavored when taken on the dish as a whole. Rather, it gave a sour and vinegary component rather than the woodiness of the rosemary coming through.

My opinion on these dishes is certainly critical, but I would argue that I approached the experience with justifiably high standards since the restaurant boasts a Michelin star. I think that this allows diners the expectation that the food served can be appreciated for either the flavor or composition,  aside from whether or not the particular dish is one that is a favorite. However, this is why I was disappointed. I generally did not view the concepts or the flavors as being anything more than straightforward.

Kali Restaurant

Los Angeles, California

Kevin Meehan, functioning as the co-owner and chef at Kali Restaurant, has a strong background with apprenticeship at the Michelin starred restaurant L'alban Chambon, which he then followed by the line up of these restaurants: L'Orangerie, Bastide, Citrine, Patina, and Cafe Pinot. He did not disappoint me and I feel confident that others will feel equally pleased when they visit. By Kevin Meehan's side is Drew Langley, the co-owner and wine director. He began at Greenblatt's Delicatessen and then moved to the Wine Merchant. In reading about him, I learned that the two became acquainted at L'Orangerie, Bastide, and Citrine. It impresses me that he then served as Wine director at Providence, a restaurant that I personally enjoyed immensely. Here is what I had the pleasure of enjoying at Kali Restaurant:

Burn Zone Gem
Bowen's whiskey, Corbin Cash sweet potato liqueur, Heering, Luxardo.
A fantastically creative integration of complex sounding ingredients, unless you actually know each of them. It is actually a classic combination of cherry and whiskey with a mildly different profile from the spiciness associated with sweet potato (cinnamon, anise, et cetera).



New pad Thai
St. George green chili vodka, agua perfecta, lime, coconut ice.
This drink delivered on the actual promised flavor of pad Thai! I loved how creative this was, but can imagine that the flavor profile may be too bold for some. For me, constantly seeking all tastes creative and unique, I loved it!

Black barley "risotto", black garlic, toasted cheese
The black garlic and toasted cheese was a delightful savory combination. The texture of the barley was a runny porridge like consistency and was too great in volume, with that comment based solely on how it played together in the texture of the entire dish, resulting in somewhat viscid spoonfuls.





Lamb, date, pecan, purlane
I typically enjoy the deep earthy taste of lamb. This dish was very good and more to my personal taste preference than the steak due to the full flavor of the meat in contrast to the cleanness of the hanger steak. Most memorable of this plate was the way the greens added textural interest and  also carried the other flavors that served as a means to deliver the sauce that could coat them like a dressing.




Hanger steak, burnt onion, fingerling potato, bitter herb oil
This dish delivered on flavor from the rich sauce. It was texturally pleasing, too. The meat was nicely cooked for my preference of being rare, but without the tastiness afforded by a cut with greater fat content. I would have intensified the herb oil considering that the volume was provided only in minuscule drips across the plate, which did not adequately disperse against the other aspects in the dish.

Meringue gelato candied egg yolk
Cured in equal parts salt and sugar
This was reviewed as such an unparalleled highlight offered on the menu that perhaps my expectations were too grandiose, but I found this dessert lackluster. It was mildly sweet and overall plain. I have cured egg yolk in salt and sugar at home and it came out with a more intense flavor with a saltiness that allowed for the tiny shavings to be a salt substitute. Therefore, I was prepared for this to be similar to a salted ice cream, but in fact, it was simply plain, albeit not unpleasant in the least.



Globally, this was an enjoyable experience and I would easily recommend the spot to others! Nicely creative ideas that I believe would generally be impressive to a diner more typical than myself who is not looking for every bite to be unusual. The featured ingredients on each dish were beautifully prepared and accompanied by complimentary flavors. Enjoy!