State Bird Provisions

San Francisco, California

No one wants to be disappointed by a meal, but this is particularly true for me. After walking more than two miles across the city in order to take in the city views and be at least somewhat active between sampling the goodies at the Ferry Building Embarcadero and hopefully eating an exciting dinner, I stood impatiently in line in the drizzle of the San Francisco sky waiting to enter the decidedly casual ambiance of State Bird Provisions. I arrived fifteen minutes prior to when they begin dinner service and a line had already formed. I had tried to make a reservation here, but they were booked. However, I was informed that one third of the restaurant is reserved for walk in seating. My hope in securing a table without having to wait was waning as the doors opened and the line stretched out longer behind me than in front of me. To my delight, I was seated at the bar in a two seat area next to another diner as interested in the food experience as I was. He elevated my hopes by reporting that he had returned here to eat multiple times and enjoys eating well curated food. This claim was substantiated by the restaurants he reported visiting. I was told by others that the experience was overrated, but I find it is difficult to rely on the opinions of others as everyone has a different point of reference for what constitutes "good" food.


The menu was explained to me after I requested to be directed to the most unique dishes. They had multiple pancakes and toasts offered along with other fare and I noticed the diverse ingredients sprinkled throughout the menu. I was happy to find that I could order a half size of many of the items on the menu.

Squash 'mochi' with maitakes, brussels sprouts and grated burgundy truffles
I selected this dish because it sounded like a unique presentation with complex flavors. Unfortunately, it tasted to me exactly like those ingredients placed in a dish. The brussel sprouts were raw without any caramelization to deepen their taste. The mushrooms were softened by cooking, but without me being able to detect any cooking broth or technique to enhance them. Although I could see the truffles, they did not add to the dish either because they were lacking in quantity or not highlighted by contrasting the other flavors adequately. The use of the word 'mochi' was an accurate description of the little squash balls of gooey texture, but again, without a distinctive squash essence. There was a thin sauce that did not cling adequately to the contents of the dish, but reminded me of a soy vinaigrette. I requested cracked black pepper to make the dish more enjoyable for me. This added a contrasting flavor and a grainy texture that I enjoyed. The dish could have been improved by the addition of a spicy note, such as a cayenne, or a sweet addition, such as dates or a honey dressing. I appreciated the unique idea to make mochi, which I viewed as an attempt to make something comparable to an asian gnocchi. Unfortunately, it was not something I can review more positively.




After this somewhat disappointing first selection, I watched as many carts were strolled past me dim sum style. This was a nice experiential aspect of the restaurant. Nonetheless, I did not feel excitement to delve into tasting what was brought around. I also assumed that the dishes would pass more than once, especially as new tables were seated. However, this was not the case and instead I passed my opportunity to make a deliberate selection. My waitress was kind enough to offer that I could order whichever dish I may have wanted. Fantastic service!









Roasted delicate squash with peptic mole and pomegranate
Per the waitresses recommendations, I tried this dish. Aside from her encouragement, I was drawn to this because of the mole and this was the one dish that I could recommend! The mole was thick and deeply flavored with a mild spiciness that contrasted with the tartness and textural popping of the pomegranate seeds as well as the pepitas sprinkled on top. Because the squash was enjoyable, I decided to make one more selection.

Smoked duck 'tsukemono' with umeboshi-rosemary vinaigrette
My hopes were that this would be an unusual take on vinegar since it was paired with the unique choice to make a duck ham, which I did want to taste since my food allergies always force me to not dabble in any dishes with ham. The saltiness of the ham was well executed in texture and flavor, but fell flat from my viewpoint on a dish that could have excelled. Additionally, it was presented as slices that I needed to cut, when it would have been easier to tackle had the pieces been bit size or cut into thin strips. It was plated with raw radishes in chunks that were difficult to manipulate on a fork and had not been given any detectable special preparations, as though tossing a raw vegetable under the duck would suffice. Also on the plate were pickled cucumber, as is often presented with a Chinese meal and typically in a vinegar dressing. Therefore, I appreciate the target of this dish, but it culminated in disappointment for me, as though it was forgotten leftovers plated as a salad haphazardly. If the radishes had been roasted or braised to soften them and sweeten their flavor, the dish would have been transformed, as they would have given the dish a more rich flavor and would have been easier to spear with a fork. Perhaps still serving a raw radish could have been more successful if they had been shaved thinly, similar to the disks of cucumber on the plate. Finally, the vinaigrette was decidedly not rosemary flavored when taken on the dish as a whole. Rather, it gave a sour and vinegary component rather than the woodiness of the rosemary coming through.

My opinion on these dishes is certainly critical, but I would argue that I approached the experience with justifiably high standards since the restaurant boasts a Michelin star. I think that this allows diners the expectation that the food served can be appreciated for either the flavor or composition,  aside from whether or not the particular dish is one that is a favorite. However, this is why I was disappointed. I generally did not view the concepts or the flavors as being anything more than straightforward.