Saturday, June 17, 2017

The Restaurant at Meadowood

Saint Helena, California




I have seen this restaurant lauded as one of the best in the country. Therefore, it was with much anticipation that I approached the imposing doorway housed within the rustic entrance of The Restaurant at Meadowood. The secluded buildings were situated in the middle of a forested area that can be reached only after winding down a long road that was endlessly flanked with large trees on either side, creating a permeating sense of privacy.

Upon entering, I was greeted warmly in a room with an impressive fireplace and was then escorted to the adjoining room. This area had a tiny bar to the left and several armchairs to the right that sat beside a floor to ceiling set of windows. Beyond that, I could see there was a dining room with several tables. However, I dined at the bar. This location may have impacted my experience as the other diners appeared to agitate the bartender rather than him engaging the usual convivial interactions that I have come to relish when I am out solo.



The first bite offered was a beignet wrapped in the crispy peel from a sunchoke and filled with a creme center. It was topped with a sprinkle of yeast and several varieties of dried mushrooms that had been foraged in the surrounding area. This was savory and delicate while also having the chewiness from the beignet dough. The dough was not overpowering and the crispy sunchoke provided a nice contrast in texture. A nicely delivered bite!



Next, a chilled soup was presented. It was created with meat from dungeness crab legs and was dotted with oil characterized by having the essence of seafood due to being gently warmed with the head of the crab  in order to provide additional seafood flavor. Also in the dish was egg gelee as well as being accompanied by crab roe in housemade almond milk. This was lightly flavored overall, likely in part due to the limiting effect that results from serving a dish cold. The concept of a cold bite was appreciated, but the day was chilly and the flavor lacked the intensity I desired to experience from the crab. Although the egg gelee was a creative touch, I was dismayed to find a shell suspended in the broth, an unexpected flaw at such a highly regarded establishment. The server apologetically swept the dish away from my place setting and did not replace it for me to attempt to enjoy again.



The presentation of dishes continued with brief breaks between courses. Salted mackerel with winter vegetable escabeche included mackerel pieces that were comparable to sashimi in size while being covered with bitter winter vegetables. The bitterness seemed to be due to the cooking process and I found the crisp kale and broccoli flavors to maintain a heartiness and sharpness that was overpowering to the fish. Thus, I inquired about the chef's intention when combining the bitter flavors with the mackerel. In the past, I have found that asking questions at highly regarded eateries often leads to a fascinating conversation about the composition of the dish. However, the server simply stated that he would not pretend to understand the intent of the chef. The response was unfulfilling to my curious mind and also left a void for my understanding of the dish, which was certainly intentional.



Whelk shells with onion horseradish nasturtium was explained as being delivered in a buttery rich broth. The curls of pasta were filled with snail and floating among tender radishes and onions. The taste was rich from the broth with a mild pepper from the nasturtium leaves that was enjoyable, but without creating an indelible memory. The pasta retained a lightness to contrast the heavy broth, a thoughtful compliment of the two within the same dish.





The artful unveiling of plates continued with beef smoked in dry onion tops. It was delivered in a wooden box that was uncovered before me allowing the pungent aroma of smoke to float out from the crispy onion tops. Enhancing the interaction with this dish, it was served by freshly pressing and swirling the garlic into the sauce as I watched. Additionally, there was an accompanying light white creamy onion sauce with the flowers from onions dotted on top. The wagu was characterized by the defining tenderness  of wage that is attained from the soft quality of the fat that it is known for. Although it had been smoked, the smokey flavor was light and the meat was improved by the sauce, which added further softness and creaminess to the palate. A perfect bite of beautiful protein with richness that melted on the tongue.








The sweeter bites of the evening were commenced with parsnip caramelized whey with white truffle ice cream, an interesting combination that I very much appreciated. The sweetness of the parsnip was highlighted through the cooking it to caramelization. This was served below a delicate lacy tuile cookie and a dollop of white truffle ice cream, providing a buttery rich flavor. The parsnip was held in a sturdy pastry shell that I found to be overpowering for the amount of parsnip in the center. It covered the flavor of the tiny cubes of parsnip, making it difficult to detect. Had the pastry been less dominate or the parsnip ratio increased, this would have been a fantastic dessert.






















The final offering of the evening was a truffle with walnut and black apple that certainly required much effort to assemble. The inside consisted of a thick and gummy walnut flavor that was enrobed in the skin from a black apple, lending a gorgeous color, but without a prominent flavor. When I have tasted black apples, they have a soft and mealy texture with a striking black skin and mildly sweet flavor. This was an enjoyable, beautifully executed, albeit not memorable, truffle. My expectations, which are based in prior experiences, are set high for such a notable establishment as this. Personally, creative and unique flavors and techniques are what I hope for, in addition to impeccable service. How disappointed I felt with the Restaurant at Meadowood falling short on both counts for me.



I had the great pleasure of being invited to view the kitchen prior to my departure. I was pristine. There were glass jars filled with various foraged items that had been preserved in one fashion or another lined up on shelves along one of the walls. The remainder of the kitchen was overwhelmingly stark white against steel appliances portraying a tastefully streamlined aesthetic. 

I was sent off with a chorus of "thank you" from the kitchen staff as I exited the room only after bombarding one of the chefs with my inquiries about the inspirations and choices for various plates. He indulged my questions, but without providing replies that afforded any passion for his craft. Although the food was excellently prepared, it was more traditional and straightforward than I had expected of such a notable establishment. Further, my experience was impacted by the generally lackluster exchanges with each of the staff. I left feeling that the meal was enjoyable, but not unforgettable.




















Monday, June 5, 2017

Cocoa Parlor

Laguna Niguel, California


This homey chocolate parlor has a deceptively tiny storefront that serves as a dispatch location for sending out huge amounts of organic chocolate bars. Perhaps you will find the product hidden beyond the entrance to be familiar? I have seen the simple brown wrappers amongst the quality treats stocked in boutique shops.

The minimalist artwork of cheerful line drawings that decorate the exterior of the chocolate bars are illustrated by the chocolate maker, Karen Webster, demonstrating her involvement in all aspects of the company.



Karen has a background as a pastry chef, but in time focused on chocolate. She has sought out sourcing single origin fermented chocolate from small, organic, fair trade farms in Peru and the Dominican Republic. Karen took two years to perfect the chocolate recipe, which has resulted in the current production of bars, truffles, and other treats that are entirely organic.

Richard was the gentleman working in the shop the day that I stopped in and he emphasized that everything in the store is organic, non- GMO, and soy free. Aside from some of the truffles that contain organic cream or milk, most of the chocolates are also vegan. Several of the cookie options are gluten free. Only the chocolate bars are sold outside of this little shop with the other treats necessitating a visit in person!



The truffle flavors that I found laid out in perfect rows during my visit included chocolate orange, raspberry, black seed curry, caramel jungle, peanut butter crunch, peanut butter milk chocolate, peanut butter dark chocolate, caramel milk chocolate, caramel dark chocolate, hazelnut, cappuccino, espresso, cinnamon latte, dark chocolate, milk chocolate, and coconut.





Organic coffee and hot chocolate is also available with a little bar supplied with various additions provided to personalize any drink. Of course, these carefully lined up containers were also all organic. I was impressed that they provide such accommodations for the customer to personalize their experience of the  already excellent products.









The benefit of stopping into the store were the several chocolate bark flavors available in the case that are not sold anywhere else. The flavors on the day that I visited included cranberry hazelnut, cashew bark, almond bark, and goji berry hemp.
















Aside from the fantastic chocolate, the storefront boasts more than half a dozen different cookies with gluten free options available as well. Although the shop is just large enough for a bistro table, a couch, and coffee table for patrons, there is an assortment of treats is adequate to satisfy any sweet tooth.


The minimal shelves lining the walls are laden with high quality gift boxes and goods such as organic nuts and dried fruits.

Definitely give the Cocoa Parlor chocolate bars a try when you see them at a store, but if you ever find yourself in the vicinity of Laguna Niguel, this is worth the stop! 




To allow you to judge if my critique is qualified at all, here are the chocolate makers (those that actually make the chocolate from the cacao beans) that I have visited and toured: 

Fresh Coast chocolate 
Pitch Dark Chocolate 
Ranger chocolate
Creo chocolate 
Dick Taylor chocolate 
Dude, sweet chocolate
Anandamide psychedelicatessen
Mast Brothers


Here are the chocolatiers (those who make confections from the chocolate that has come from a chocolate maker) and other notable chocolate and sweets shops that I have visited (and can remember): 

Jacques Torres Chocolate
L'Artisan du chocolat 
John Kelly Chocolates 
Marsatta fancy chocolates 
See's Candies
Mama Ganache Artisan Chocolates 
Compartes Chocolates
Essential Chocolate Desserts
Lady Chocolatt
Valerie Confections
Vosges Haut Chocolate 
Fran's Chocolates
Cocoabella Chocolates 
Sweet!
Hammonds Candies Factory
A Real Treat Candy Boutique
The Meadow 
Recchiuti Confections
Chocolopolis
Lolli and Pops
Sugarfina
K Chocolatier By Diane Kron
Edelweiss Chocolates 
ChocoVivo
Mignon Chocolate
Grom 
Teuscher Chocolates and Cafe