The Restaurant at Meadowood

Saint Helena, California




I have seen this restaurant lauded as one of the best in the country. Therefore, it was with much anticipation that I approached the imposing doorway housed within the rustic entrance of The Restaurant at Meadowood. The secluded buildings were situated in the middle of a forested area that can be reached only after winding down a long road that was endlessly flanked with large trees on either side, creating a permeating sense of privacy.

Upon entering, I was greeted warmly in a room with an impressive fireplace and was then escorted to the adjoining room. This area had a tiny bar to the left and several armchairs to the right that sat beside a floor to ceiling set of windows. Beyond that, I could see there was a dining room with several tables. However, I dined at the bar. This location may have impacted my experience as the other diners appeared to agitate the bartender rather than him engaging the usual convivial interactions that I have come to relish when I am out solo.



The first bite offered was a beignet wrapped in the crispy peel from a sunchoke and filled with a creme center. It was topped with a sprinkle of yeast and several varieties of dried mushrooms that had been foraged in the surrounding area. This was savory and delicate while also having the chewiness from the beignet dough. The dough was not overpowering and the crispy sunchoke provided a nice contrast in texture. A nicely delivered bite!



Next, a chilled soup was presented. It was created with meat from dungeness crab legs and was dotted with oil characterized by having the essence of seafood due to being gently warmed with the head of the crab  in order to provide additional seafood flavor. Also in the dish was egg gelee as well as being accompanied by crab roe in housemade almond milk. This was lightly flavored overall, likely in part due to the limiting effect that results from serving a dish cold. The concept of a cold bite was appreciated, but the day was chilly and the flavor lacked the intensity I desired to experience from the crab. Although the egg gelee was a creative touch, I was dismayed to find a shell suspended in the broth, an unexpected flaw at such a highly regarded establishment. The server apologetically swept the dish away from my place setting and did not replace it for me to attempt to enjoy again.



The presentation of dishes continued with brief breaks between courses. Salted mackerel with winter vegetable escabeche included mackerel pieces that were comparable to sashimi in size while being covered with bitter winter vegetables. The bitterness seemed to be due to the cooking process and I found the crisp kale and broccoli flavors to maintain a heartiness and sharpness that was overpowering to the fish. Thus, I inquired about the chef's intention when combining the bitter flavors with the mackerel. In the past, I have found that asking questions at highly regarded eateries often leads to a fascinating conversation about the composition of the dish. However, the server simply stated that he would not pretend to understand the intent of the chef. The response was unfulfilling to my curious mind and also left a void for my understanding of the dish, which was certainly intentional.



Whelk shells with onion horseradish nasturtium was explained as being delivered in a buttery rich broth. The curls of pasta were filled with snail and floating among tender radishes and onions. The taste was rich from the broth with a mild pepper from the nasturtium leaves that was enjoyable, but without creating an indelible memory. The pasta retained a lightness to contrast the heavy broth, a thoughtful compliment of the two within the same dish.





The artful unveiling of plates continued with beef smoked in dry onion tops. It was delivered in a wooden box that was uncovered before me allowing the pungent aroma of smoke to float out from the crispy onion tops. Enhancing the interaction with this dish, it was served by freshly pressing and swirling the garlic into the sauce as I watched. Additionally, there was an accompanying light white creamy onion sauce with the flowers from onions dotted on top. The wagu was characterized by the defining tenderness  of wage that is attained from the soft quality of the fat that it is known for. Although it had been smoked, the smokey flavor was light and the meat was improved by the sauce, which added further softness and creaminess to the palate. A perfect bite of beautiful protein with richness that melted on the tongue.








The sweeter bites of the evening were commenced with parsnip caramelized whey with white truffle ice cream, an interesting combination that I very much appreciated. The sweetness of the parsnip was highlighted through the cooking it to caramelization. This was served below a delicate lacy tuile cookie and a dollop of white truffle ice cream, providing a buttery rich flavor. The parsnip was held in a sturdy pastry shell that I found to be overpowering for the amount of parsnip in the center. It covered the flavor of the tiny cubes of parsnip, making it difficult to detect. Had the pastry been less dominate or the parsnip ratio increased, this would have been a fantastic dessert.

The final offering of the evening was a truffle with walnut and black apple that certainly required much effort to assemble. The inside consisted of a thick and gummy walnut flavor that was enrobed in the skin from a black apple, lending a gorgeous color, but without a prominent flavor. When I have tasted black apples, they have a soft and mealy texture with a striking black skin and mildly sweet flavor. This was an enjoyable, beautifully executed, albeit not memorable, truffle. My expectations, which are based in prior experiences, are set high for such a notable establishment as this. Personally, creative and unique flavors and techniques are what I hope for, in addition to impeccable service. How disappointed I felt with the Restaurant at Meadowood falling short on both counts for me.

I had the great pleasure of being invited to view the kitchen prior to my departure. I was pristine. There were glass jars filled with various foraged items that had been preserved in one fashion or another lined up on shelves along one of the walls. The remainder of the kitchen was overwhelmingly stark white against steel appliances portraying a tastefully streamlined aesthetic. 

I was sent off with a chorus of "thank you" from the kitchen staff as I exited the room only after bombarding one of the chefs with my inquiries about the inspirations and choices for various plates. He indulged my questions, but without providing replies that afforded any passion for his craft. Although the food was excellently prepared, it was more traditional and straightforward than I had expected of such a notable establishment. Further, my experience was impacted by the generally lackluster exchanges with each of the staff. I left feeling that the meal was enjoyable, but not unforgettable.