Rome, Italy

Rome was where I ended my journey around Italy.

I stayed several days and explored many different areas. Food memories were my favorite, of course! However, I did see the Vatican, the Sistine chapel, and the Colosseum, which was a large stone ruins, with perhaps more ruins in general that I anticipated in general as I walked around the city.

I tasted Giolitti Gelato. the oldest gelateria in Rome, established in 1890. There will always be a line waiting to enter, but it moves fairly quickly, highlighting that the staff is accustomed to a constant inundation of patrons. The flavors seemed endless! I enjoyed my scoop on the sidewalk just outside the store, after which I snapped the picture below. 

It was not my only stop for gelato! I also tasted Fatamorgana, which is also a popular establishment that is entirely gluten free, as the founder has celiac disease. It was delicious! 

There were other unplanned gelato stops, too, such as when I saw this gelato shop and did not leave until I had a scoop in hand. 

Gelato îs one of my favorites, as ice cream was my favorite childhood food, but cheese is where a more recent passion lies! I combed reviews to try to find information on the best places to buy local cheese. I ended up with several stops, only one of which was a little disappointing and I only enumerate my favorite stops below.

ANTICA CACIARA

A little cheese shop that felt local, situated in the Trasteverina area of the city. The store is bursting with cheese, sausage, wine, and bacalao. 

The cheese selection felt very local. Was it the limited English spoken in the shop? The handwritten labels on the goods that were for sale? I am uncertain, but I was very pleased with the pricing and the flavor of the purchases I made here, which was limited to cheese and bacalao. 

VOLPETTI SALUMERIA

This was reviewed as having some of the best selection of fine foods around the city and I was impressed by the variety of offerings as well as the service. I purchased a mountain of cheese that I put into my suitcase to eat back home in California. The store was overflowing with items to make a perfectly elegant charcuterie spread, ranging from meats and olives to artichokes to oils and vinegars, but also freshly cooked items, such as cake and arancini. 

TRATTORIA MONTI

This spot required a reservation, which I did not have, but put my name on a list and returned several hours later to be seated at the beginning of the dinner service. 

Red onion flan in gorgonzola cheese sauce

Tortello, which is a large ravioli with a fresh egg yolk inside

There were rave reviews about this dish, so I ordered it, but have to say it was underwhelming considering the hype. I do respect the art that is put into such a delicate dish, but compared to the flavor bomb offered by the flan that I had just eaten, I imagine that other items on the menu were worthy of attention as well.

PROLOCO DOL

This cheese shop was a trek out of the way, but I am glad that I went. The shop is unique in that it offers all items from small producers in the Lazio region. Below I am pictured with the owner, who was as passionate to tell about his products as I was to listen, especially once I told him that I had taken public transit and walking to reach him from the city! He could not believe it since it is thirty minutes by car, but I was determined to visit! 

This photo of the meat counter does not look like much, but the bresaola (air dried beef), which is to the left side of the prosciutto, was so remarkable that I still recall it clearly years later. It was sweet as it had been soaked in a sweet liquor, such as brandy or port, but I am uncertain which.

TRAM TRAM

This restaurant was another located a small trek from the bustling city center. In fact, when I told a local where I had eaten, his reaction was, "but that is the other side of the tracks where only the Romans go", affirming for me that only those who know the area would venture there. 

Again, I was committed to visit this location, albeit inconvenient to get to, as I had heard the food was remarkable with traditional Roman cuisine as well as Pugliese fish dishes in the S Lorenzo district of Rome. 

The restaurnt felt homey with a bunch of ladies in the kitchen. I had the distinct feeling that they had all been working in the restaurant and cooking up the same familiar dishes for years. 

Puree of dried cod on cream chickpeas with polenta chips. 

Anchovy and indie tart with pine nuts, olives, tomato, and cheese. 

Beautifully executed dishes that had just enough effort put into the plating that it felt more like a nice meal than just a hearty meal from home.

And so I conclude with a nod to the coffee in Rome. Caffe Castroni was a popular spot, as was the highly reviewed La Casa del Caffe Tazza d Oro. Neither particularly wowed me with the quality of the coffee, a pronouncement from an open coffee snob, which many others would certainly disagree with. Nonetheless, it was memorable to stand at the counter with my espresso and sip along with the other patrons lining the counter. Caffe Castroni was a place I visited several times as they boast a wide variety of gourmet goods, so I was spellbound as I wandered the isles and decided what I could pack into my suitcase to enjoy later. 

Rome is definitely a popular destination and I found special niches that were perfect for my trip!